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Because of sketchy weather, the National Sport Climbing Championships have been rescheduled to June 29th and 30th, well outside of the rainy season.
And yes, that means Neihu is open this week!
Source: CTAA on Facebook
The 4th round of the 2013 Boulder World Cup was held last weekend at Log-Dragomer, Slovenia.
This year IFSC is going with a simultaneous format seen at the Paris World Championships where the male and female athletes come out at the same time.
| # | Woman | Man |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Anne-Laure Chevrier(FRA) | James Kassay(AUS) |
| 2 | Mélissa Le Nevé(FRA) | Sean McColl(CAN) |
| 3 | Shauna Coxsey(GBR) | Thomas Tauporn(GER) |
| 4 | Akiyo Noguchi(JPN) | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov(RUS) |
| 5 | Mina Markovic(SLO) | Jan Hojer(GER) |
| 6 | Anna Stohr(AUT) | Cedric Lachat(SUI) |
The 3rd round of the 2013 Boulder World Cup was held last weekend at Kitzbühel, Austria.
This year IFSC is going with a simultaneous format seen at the Paris World Championships where the male and female athletes come out at the same time.
| # | Woman | Man |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alex Puccio(USA) | Jernej Kruder(SLO) |
| 2 | Mina Markovic(SLO) | Guillaume Glairon Mondet(FRA) |
| 3 | Katharina Saurwein(AUT) | Cédric Lachat(SUI) |
| 4 | Akiyo Noguchi(JPN) | Jakob Schubert(AUT) |
| 5 | Anna Stöhr(AUT) | Thomas Tauporn(GER) |
| 6 | Shauna Coxsey(GBR) | Dmitrii Sharafutdinov(RUS) |
With STONE’s Birds Egg Competition right around the corner, NTUT’s Shanzai Cup on May 11th, and the National Championships on May 18th-19th, there are plenty of reasons to want to improve your onsight climbing level.
Although generally thought of as a route-climbing skill, onsighting or flashing routes is the ideal strategy in bouldering competitions as well. Not only do you have the most strength, and the greatest chance to send on the first try of a boulder, but attempting a problem more than once will tire you out quickly, reducing your chances of finishing subsequent problems.
Without further ado we present Onsight Tips from 2 Masters:
photo – Megos
Alex has blown the climbing world away by onsighting 9a. To put this into perspective, the current hardest route in the world is graded 9b+.
How does he do it? Alex Megos talks about specific skills needed to onsight and how to build them in this interview to RCUK last year. Although at that time he had “only” onsighted 8b+, the same tips are relevant today.
Jerry Moffat is one of the legendary British climbers from the 80′s who pushed the envelope of what is possible. Known for both his onsight and redpoint achievements, in this video he gives very practical strategies for dealing with nerves, and getting the right frame of mind for onsight climbing.
Date & Time: Saturday May 11th, 2013 . Please arrive by 8:30am
Location: National Taipei University of Technology Bouldering Gym (ZhongXiao E. Rd. Section 3 No.1, Taipei City ，near MRT Zhongxiao Xinsheng Exit 4)
The day of the comp, volunteers will be at the
Competition type: Bouldering
Divisions: Men’s Open、Men’s Amateur、Women’s
Registration Fee: 300TWD (Includes Commemorative T-Shirt、Insurance)
Registration Deadline: May 4th, 2013
Prizes: Top 3 ranking competitors in each division get prizes
Online Registration(Chinese): https://docs.google.com/forms/
Any foreign climbers who would like to compete but don’t read Chinese can contact us and we will send you instructions.
