Welcome to TaiwanRocks.net

Outdoor - Places to climb outdoors
Indoor - Indoor gyms
Shops - Climbing shops to stock up on gear
Meet - Climb with us!
Climbing Glossary- learn climbing commands and terms in English and Chinese
Climbing Instruction - The lowdown on Climbing Instuction in Taiwan
Library - Borrow a climbing book

Our Blog is below, with the latest Taiwan climbing news.

中文版請點此


2017 Long Dong Spring Cleanup

17917339_660037639222_8676712366192424253_o

TGG Bouldering Gym Reborn as T-Up Bouldering Gym

TGG Bouldering Gym, a small but well run bouldering gym on the border of Taoyuan and Hsinchu, has been massively expanded and reincarnated as T-UP bouldering gym.

Tup 2 pano

Like the newest generation of bouldering gyms in Taiwan, T-Up’s climbing walls features color coded holds, and  geometric wall design that creates uniquely challenging terrain. Slabs, dihedrals, overhangs, you name it its here. Featuring three well-sized climbing areas spanning two floors, T-Up is currently the largest bouldering gym in Taiwan, with significantly more climbing surface than STONE.

T-Up has fantastic holds sourced from all over the world, and the routes that we tried made good use of them. Route quality was for the most part quite good, though not quite as consistent as STONE.

Besides the well designed climbing facilities, T-Up has solid amenities and well-thought out layout including a waiting room, changing rooms, multiple bathrooms and a chillout area on the second floor.

For families with small children, there’s a walled-off kids area complete with mini slide and climbing holds.

T-Up also has world-class training facilities.

There is a Full-Tension training board, a system board, a peg/sloper board, a campusboard, as well as three fingerboards including, of course, a Beastmaker 2000. A Moonboard on the first floor completes the steep board trifecta.

At $280 for weekdays and $340 for weekends, the prices are almost as steep as the training boards, though time-based discounts and package pricing help. Is it worth it? For a world class climbing experience in a well designed gym with generous opening hours, we think the answer is yes.

Long Dong Fall Cleanup 2016

14724436_645782247142_5811710570268666574_n

Rebolting Starts again at LD – with Titanium

The Rebolt Team has announced that Titanium bolt product has finished – over 1000 bolts have been produced, and rebolting will start again soon.

13115996_715256508614391_2371764063749592025_o

Read the rest of this entry »

Guidebook Plus Update September 2016

GB+

Guidebook Plus is the best way to stay up to date on route safety status at LD

Guidebook Plus, the online supplement to 2012′s Rock Climbing Taiwan guidebook, has been updated for September 2016. The full online version is here and the PDF version designed for easy printout for reading at the crag is here.

Recent major developments include rockfall in the backdoor area that has rendered a few routes unclimbable, pull testing of bolts, and new trad ascents.

Rockfall at Backdoor

photo - A-lang

photo – A-lang

Reported by local climber A-lang, a major rockfall in the backdoor area in June in the backdoor B2 area has rendered  a few routes near Old Man Wall unclimbable. Routes 67, 70, and 71 were affected.

304 AustriAlpin Bolts

austrialpin_buhler

photo – Austrialpin

Last year the discovery that some older Petzl Collinox bolts previously believed to be made of marine grade 316 stainless steel were in fact, made of 304, shook the Taiwan climbing community and meant many more routes were now suspect.

This year it has been discovered that Austrialpin glue-in bolts used in some routes in the Backdoor B2 area as well as Lower Dragon Ridge outside of First Cave are also 304 and not 316 steel as previously believed.

Pull Testing

hydrajaws

photo -HydraJaws

Extensive pull testing has been done on nearly all the 304 stainless steel bolts at popular areas in Long Dong except for the Austrialpin bolts previously mentioned, which are unable to be tested due to the shape of the bolt. These tests involve pulling each bolt 5 times to a load of 8KN, each time holding the peak load for 30 seconds.

These tests have uncovered a number of failed bolts, and also “passed” many other ones. The safety of whether routes with completely “passed” bolts is not entirely clear so Guidebook Plus errs on the side of caution and marks these routes still as unsafe(red color.) For more daring climbers comfortable climbing on tested and passed 304 bolts, Climbio provides detailed pull test results.

New Trad Routes

New routes

photo – Nathan Ball

New trad routes have been put up officially and unofficially in several areas of Long Dong including the Grand Auditorium, Music Hall, and Euro Wall.

Because of Long Dong’s history of low-key first ascents, many of these climbs are not claimed as official First Ascents(FA) but as First Recent Ascents(FRA). However, the recent ascent of “Blade”, a new 5.11 in the Music Hall area, is confirmed to be an official first ascent by Cheang Qing Xin.