Golden Valley Route #123 Snake Alley Bolts Suspect

german bolt crack

Cracked bolt on Snake Alley – Photo courtesy Kevin Juan

Kevin Juan reports via Facebook of a cracked glue-in bolt on Golden Valley route #123 – Snake Alley.

The routes on this face(Euro Wall)were originally bolted by a pair of visiting Germans in the 2000′s who did not account for the constant sea spray this wall gets. The “German” bolts on route #123 Snake Alley are glue-in type, but as they are made of lesser 304 steel, wear extremely quickly upon contact with seawater and are considered extremely suspect and should not be trusted to hold falls or even body weight.

Spanish Climber Jose Ramon Duran took a fall on this route in 2008 and broke a bolt. That bolt was subsequently rebolted with higher quality steel, but this new picture shows that other bolts on this route are just as bad. As a number of routes on the Euro Wall use the same type of 304 steel bolts as this cracked bolt, we recommend climbers visiting this area supplement bolts with trad gear, or make sure there are new bolts before getting on a climb.

For more information about bolts at LD please see our recent post on the subject.

Visiting climbers to Long Dong are highly discouraged from bolting as harsh seaside conditions mean commercial bolts can fail within 1 to 3 years of installation.

Edit: Updated January 31, 2014 to correct date of Jose’s fall.

  1. 2 Responses to “Golden Valley Route #123 Snake Alley Bolts Suspect”

  2. Please note that Jose’s breakage took place in 2008, not recently. None of those bolts should be considered trustworthy.
    This route is much safer when climbed on with supplemental traditional gear. There are plenty of easy placements throughout.

    By BS on Jan 31, 2014

  3. Corrected. Thanks B!

    By Danger on Jan 31, 2014

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