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TGG Bouldering Gym Reborn as T-Up Bouldering Gym

TGG Bouldering Gym, a small but well run bouldering gym on the border of Taoyuan and Hsinchu, has been massively expanded and reincarnated as T-UP bouldering gym.

Tup 2 pano

Like the newest generation of bouldering gyms in Taiwan, T-Up’s climbing walls features color coded holds, and  geometric wall design that creates uniquely challenging terrain. Slabs, dihedrals, overhangs, you name it its here. Featuring three well-sized climbing areas spanning two floors, T-Up is currently the largest bouldering gym in Taiwan, with significantly more climbing surface than STONE.

T-Up has fantastic holds sourced from all over the world, and the routes that we tried made good use of them. Route quality was for the most part quite good, though not quite as consistent as STONE.

Besides the well designed climbing facilities, T-Up has solid amenities and well-thought out layout including a waiting room, changing rooms, multiple bathrooms and a chillout area on the second floor.

For families with small children, there’s a walled-off kids area complete with mini slide and climbing holds.

T-Up also has world-class training facilities.

There is a Full-Tension training board, a system board, a peg/sloper board, a campusboard, as well as three fingerboards including, of course, a Beastmaker 2000. A Moonboard on the first floor completes the steep board trifecta.

At $280 for weekdays and $340 for weekends, the prices are almost as steep as the training boards, though time-based discounts and package pricing help. Is it worth it? For a world class climbing experience in a well designed gym with generous opening hours, we think the answer is yes.

Shabby Factory 2

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Description: A new gym in Wuri District, around the HSR station.

Type of climbing: Bouldering(4m)
Address:台中市台中市烏日區健行路131號
(about 20 minutes walking from Chenggong train station)
phone:0919 175 471
Opening Hours:
Weekdays: 17:30 – 22:30
Weekends: 9:00 – 17:00

Prices:
Daily Pass $200, Students $160
10 day pass $1,500
Seasonal pass $3,000 ;Half year Membership $5,400; Annual membership $9,600
Student Discount: Seasonal pass $2,400 ;Half year $4,000; Annual $7,500

Rating: ★★★★☆ 


Note:
A sizable gym with a good variety of terrain – including Taiwan’s first slab wall. Lacks a super steep wall(though it does have a roof,) but this gym has fun climbing and decent routes – though not as many as we would like. Also – showers!

shabbycampus shabbyright
shabby sign    shabbyleft

Xizhi Bouldering Gym Review

In the last two years, shiny new sports centers have started popping up in New Taipei City, each with its own Entreprises-built climbing wall. The quality and design of these contract-built climbing facilities has varied greatly, but the Xizhi one, with its angular, orange, white, and gray panels, and Mallorca-esque arch shape has been tantalizingly promising.

Xizhi Outer

Situated on the second floor of a swimming pool, the climbing gym itself occupies the entire level and is surprisingly spacious

It’s not the biggest climbing wall in town – STONE wins that race by a mile, but it uses its 218 square meters of climbing space well. Every facet of the main boulder has climbable area for a surprising amount of climbing packed into a moderately sized structure. The island style boulder design also creates a totally different experience from typical climbing gyms where the walls surround the climbers. Here the climbing area is center stage, surrounded by plenty of space for climbers to rest and spectate.

Amenities

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Downward dog your heart out

Amenities here are as good as you’ll find in Taipei – no foot baths, but you have a yoga and stretching area with foam rollers, simple but ample spectator seating, tables to eat or relax at, and a TV to watch climbing videos on. A slackline, and fingerboard are supposed to be in the works as well.

The bathrooms are Taipei sports center quality – clean, with water dispensers and showers. Whereas Red Rock has one stingily-used wall mounted AC cooling the entire gym, Xizhi has the real thing – five commercial grade units blasting arctic temperatures at full strength. This may be the most comfortable climbing gym in Taipei.

Climbing

Xizhi Stitch

The climbing itself is a mix of incredible terrain held back by mediocre routesetting. The wall itself is world-class. The arch is a multifaceted, geometric wonder with every angle and shape you could think of. From vertical, slab, and slightly overhung to roof, to multi-angled terrain. Climbing this thing is akin to climbing something outside, dihedrals, aretes and all.

However, uninspired holds and routesetting detract from the experience. The holds on the wall are sourced completely from the wall manufacturer – EP. While you’ll find every type of hold on the wall – from crimps to slopers to jugs or pinches, what you won’t find is much variety – many holds are repeated, and all the holds feature the same coarse texture and matte color scheme common to EP holds.

The routes are ostensibly color-coded, but routefinding is still frustratingly difficult on many walls because holds of the same color are used closely together on different routes. I talked to the setter and he said they will use tape to help delineate routes, but for the time being it’s difficult at best and impossible many times to isolate a single route on a wall.

The quality of the setting itself is not stellar, but not that bad. However route difficulty is bipolar – either quite easy  or very hard, with little middle ground. Along with the colored hold issue, this makes climbing the set routes an exercise in mild frustration.

Despite all this the gym is somehow still quite fun to climb at. There are enough holds on the wall to make up interesting routes on any part of the wall fairly easily. Ignore the colors, make up your own routes, play around on the mutli-faceted terrain, and you’ll have a good time.

For Location, Pricing and other Details visit our climbing gym entry for Xizhi Bouldering Gym  

TGG Bouldering Gym Opens in Taoyuan County

TGG
A new bouldering gym opens today in Yangmei District, Taoyuan County. Run by Stone Squad member Digua, TGG or TG2 Bouldering Gym has 4 meter high walls and occupies 25 ping (~85 sq. m).

Tgg2

Nearby Yangmei Train station, TGG gym is located about 15minutes away by foot making it fairly accessible by public transportation, but if you’re living in Taoyuan you’re probably gonna get here by scooter or car.

The new gym joins NCU, Yam, and Shuimei climbing gyms in Taoyuan, but with high quality holds, and routesetting by STONE squad members, is by far the best option for serious climbers.

Location水美里梅高路92號 (Location pinned manually as Google Maps does not map this address correctly. )

Hours: 5-11pm Monday, Wednesdays and Fridays with weekend hours posted on the facebook page. 

Pricing: $150 for adults and $120 for students.

photos courtesy TGG Bouldering Gym

STONE Bouldering Gym

Description:  The best all-around bouldering gym in Taiwan.
Offers: Bouldering(5m)

Location: 新北市新莊區三和路58-12號
Hours: Weekdays 7-11pm . Saturday 10am-8pm, Sunday 10am-7pm.
STONE is usually open on holidays, but hours are adjusted to Sunday hours.
Phone: (09)6300 4402
Stone Bouldering Gym FB  STONE ClimbIO
Pricing: $200 per visit, $250 on weekends. Shoe rental $50
For detailed pricing check the photo gallery

Rating: ★★★★½ 

Notes: Well designed, with 5 meter high walls at all angles, good routesetting, good holds, and even a foot bath! This is a very well run bouldering gym, a great place to climb on fun problems and get strong!

A far out location makes this gym less ideal for dates and casual climbers but if you enjoy bouldering and have the time, STONE is definitely worth making the trek for.