Bolts in Golden Valley Show Signs of Internal Corrosion

Wojtek ferno

Bolts removed from Dragonboat wall show internal cracks (photo – Wojtek Gierlotka)

Cross sectional pictures taken by Wojtek  Gierlotka of old bolts removed from the Dragon Boat wall in Golden Valley, Long Dong show internal cracks, most likely from Stress Corrosion Cracking. This type of corrosion, accelerated by salt from seaspray, is not visible to the naked eye but damages the bolt from the inside, meaning bolts which look perfectly fine can in fact be severely unreliable.

The specific bolt involved is an old Ferno CT glue-in Anchor believed to be of 304 stainless steel – acceptable for inland installation but not suitable for crags such as Long Dong situated by the sea.

Ferno Glue In

These bolts were used extensively in the development of Golden Valley’s Euro Wall and Dragon Boat Wall in the early 2000′s. While most of Golden Valley has recently been rebolted and is now very safe to climb, rebolting on the Euro Wall multipitch routes has hit a standstill as a debate rages over bolting ethics at Long Dong.

While the rest of Golden Valley, including all routes on Dragonboat Wall and Legend Wall, is safe to climb, the multipitch routes from #114 to #123 on Golden Valley’s Euro Wall still sport these dangerous bolts. For climbers attempting Euro Wall’s classic multipitch routes such as Snake Alley, BiColor, or Ocean’s Eleven, caution is advised and backing up bolts with trad gear is a good idea.

For the latest status on rebolting at Long Dong, visit Guidebook+, our local route info tracker

tags: ,


Post a Comment

Login if you have a account, or fill in your information to leave a comment