Posted by Danger on
Mar 29th, 2012
Type of Climbing: Sport, Trad, possible Bouldering, a little bit of DWS
Season: Year round, but climbable days in Winter are rare because of rain.
Description: Long Dong(Dragon’s Lair or Dragon’s Cave) is excellent sandstone climbing on the eastern coast of Taiwan and Taiwan’s premier outdoor climbing area.
Accessible easily from Taipei, Hsinchu and northern parts of Taiwan, approaches to the crags at Long Dong range from quick and easy to 30 minute hikes over rough terrain and sketchy traverses, but you’re rewarded for your hard work with superb climbing on firm sandstone that provides great friction.
The sapphire blue waters, the sea breeze and beautiful rock formations make for a breathtaking backdrop that complements the excellent climbing.
We highly recommend the Rock Climbing Taiwan 台灣龍洞攀岩 guidebook, extensively covering both Sport and Trad climbing at Long Dong, available at Tingsaniou in Taipei, iClimb in Hsinchu, or online worldwide.
Click on the Entrance you want to approach above and use Google Maps for directions
By Bus from Taipei: From Taipei West Bus Station Terminal A(台北西站A棟）buy a ticket to Long Dong Harbour(龍洞港）The Bus # will be 1811 . Busses leave at 8:20, 9:20 and 10:20 in the morning. The bus ride takes about 1:10-1:30.
For School Gate entrance, get off at “龍洞港“(Long Dong Harbour) bus stop, walk down the bamboo stairs into the village main road, and walk right into the crag.
For Backdoor entrance, get off at the next stop(Officially “龍洞南口”, but if you ask politely, the bus driver will drop you off right after the tunnel.) and walk up the side road towards the temple.
Buses run back to Taipei at roughly 3:00pm and 6:00pm depending on traffic. To catch the Taipei bus from Backdoor wait at the Long Dong Ocean Park stop.
- Taiwan Central Weather Bureau (Scroll down for LongDong) – This is specific to Long Dong, but it has only one forecast for the whole day.
- Detailed Township weather report(Choose New Taipei City->GongLiao District))- This is for the district that Long Dong is in, but is more detailed and shows weather forecasts throughout the day
- Long Dong WebCam - Thanks to Ophelia Huang for tipping us off about this!
Rebolt status: Because of seaside corrosion, some routes are not safe to climb. To be sure you are climbing on safe routes, we suggest you not only have a guidebook on hand but also visit our Long Dong Rebolt Page to check latest status.
Guide Service: In Motion Asia provides guide service for this area
MountainProject.com - Pretty good resource about Long Dong, with transportation, info about what gear to bring, and basic info about crags. Lacks depth and coverage of the guidebook but enough for a day trip.
Climbstone.com - Well organized, basic info on Long Dong, including how to get there, what to bring. The site is run by Matt Robertson, author of the Rock Climbing Taiwan guidebook.