Because of sketchy weather, the National Sport Climbing Championships have been rescheduled to June 29th and 30th, well outside of the rainy season.

And yes, that means Neihu is open this week!

Source:  CTAA on Facebook

This year IFSC is going with a simultaneous format seen at the Paris World Championships where the male and female athletes come  out at the same time.

Video Contents

• Problem 1 - 00:35  
• Problem 2 - 55:30
• Problem 3 – 1:24
• Problem 4 – 1:55

Order of contestants

Results

Men

1. Sean McColl(CAN) – 3 Tops in 5 Attempts
2. Jan Hojer(GER) 2 Top in 8 Attempts
3. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov(RUS) 2 Tops in 10 Attempts

Women

1. Anna Stöhr(AUT) – 3 Tops in 6 Attempts, 4 Bonus holds in 5 attempts
2. Mélissa Le Nevé(FRA) – 3 Tops in 6 Attempts, 4 Bonus holds in 7 Attempts
3. Shauna Coxsey(GBR) – 2 Tops in 3 Attempts

IFSC Scoring

Competitors are scored by the number of boulders they top-out, in the lower number of attempts.

Each boulder problem has a bonus hold in the middle, usually after the first “crux”. If there is a tie, competitors are ranked by the # of bonus holds reached and the number of attempts taken to reach them.

This year IFSC is going with a simultaneous format seen at the Paris World Championships where the male and female athletes come out at the same time.

Video Contents

• Problem 1 – 00:39
• Problem 2 – 1:06
• Problem 3 – 1:30
• Problem 4 – 2:01

Order of contestants

Results

Men

1. Jakob Schubert(AUT) 2 Tops in 7 Attempts
2. Guillame Glairon-Mondet(FRA) 1 Top in 2 Attempts
3. Dmitrii Sharafutdinov(RUS) 1 Top in 3 Attempts

Women

1. Anna Stöhr(AUT) – All FLASH (Countback to Semi-Finals!)
2. Akiyo Noguchi(JPN) – All FLASH (Countback to Semi-Finals!)
3. Alex Puccio(USA) – 4 Tops in 6 Attempts

IFSC Scoring

Competitors are scored by the number of boulders they top-out, in the lower number of attempts.

Each boulder problem has a bonus hold in the middle, usually after the first “crux”. If there is a tie, competitors are ranked by the # of bonus holds reached and the number of attempts taken to reach them.

Although generally thought of as a route-climbing skill, onsighting or flashing routes is the ideal strategy in bouldering competitions as well. Not only do you have the most strength, and the greatest chance to send on the first try of a boulder, but attempting a problem more than once will tire you out quickly, reducing your chances of finishing subsequent problems.

Without further ado we present Onsight Tips from 2 Masters:

Alex Megos

photo – Megos

Alex has blown the climbing world away by onsighting 9a. To put this into perspective, the current hardest route in the world is graded 9b+.

How does he do it? Alex Megos talks about specific skills needed to onsight and how to build them in this interview to RCUK last year. Although at that time he had “only” onsighted 8b+, the same tips are relevant today.

Jerry Moffat

Jerry Moffat is one of the legendary British climbers from the 80′s who pushed the envelope of what is possible. Known for both his onsight and redpoint achievements, in this video he gives very practical strategies for dealing with nerves,  and getting the right frame of mind for onsight  climbing.

Date & Time: Saturday May 11th, 2013 . Please arrive by 8:30am

Location: National Taipei University of Technology Bouldering Gym (ZhongXiao E. Rd. Section 3 No.1, Taipei City  ，near MRT Zhongxiao Xinsheng Exit 4)

The day of the comp, volunteers will be at the

Competition type: Bouldering

Divisions: Men’s Open、Men’s Amateur、Women’s

Registration Fee: 300TWD (Includes Commemorative T-Shirt、Insurance)

Registration Deadline: May 4th, 2013

Prizes: Top 3 ranking competitors in each division get prizes

Online Registration(Chinese): https://docs.google.com/forms/d/12BvIjbIfwLKkKhK0AHAn5rKi1BFL32nXn1PzGHcM8Aw/viewform?edit_requested=true&pli=1

Any foreign climbers who would like to compete but don’t read Chinese can contact us and we will send you instructions.

Civic Bouldering Gym’s staff has finished putting up holds and routes early, and is set to open today, April 22nd at 6pm!

Prices are currently $240, a new record for a bouldering gym in Taiwan, and set to rise to $300 after the opening period, but with a relatively convenient location and a ton of holds, it may be worth it.

The pricing scheme is a bit unusual though, in that it is not a day pass, but a “time period” ticket.

For more details about Civic Bouldering Gym, check out its entry on our gyms page.

Location: Civic Blvd. Sec 8 #552 (close to Nangang Exhibition Hall station)
Offers: Bouldering(5m)

Hours: Monday-Saturday 9:30am-10pm, Sunday 9:30am-6pm

Pricing: $180/day pass

If you come 10 times in a 6 month period they will give an extra  entry!

Photos

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Rating: ★★★★☆ 

Notes: Civic Bouldering Gym is big and well featured, with walls at quite a few angles, volumes, and tons and tons of holds everywhere.

On paper, Civic has the potential to be 5 star gym, but variable routesetting a feeling of cutting corners and a few other details keeps us from giving it a higher rating

Nevertheless it’s well worth going to and especially for beginners or intermediate climbers a pretty cool gym.

Facebook (Chinese)

Date: Saturday April 20th

Time: Morning until 2pm(trash pickup time)

Location: Schoolgate side of Long Dong. Pickup at Ho-Mei Elementary School

Mark your calendars — this weekend is Long Dong Spring Cleaning! As the climbing season kicks into high gear we need your help to keep Taiwan’s premier climbing area clean!

This time the cleaning will focus on the Schoolgate area of Long Dong.  Please bring your own trash bags, and collection will happen at 2pm around Ho-mei Elementary school.

To stay up to date on LD Cleanup efforts, organized by Ryan Keenan and Pei-Hsuan Chiang, join the Long Dong Cleanup Facebook group.

Official Videos from IFSC

• Bouldering Highlight Reel
• Full Finals Replays

Results

Men

1. Killian Fischhuber(AUT)  3t9
2. Guillame Glairon Mondet(FRA) 1t1  4b10
3. Jorg Verhoeven(NED) 1t1  3b4

Women

1. Anna Stöhr(AUT) 4t13
2. Shauan Coxsey(GBR) 4t14
3. Akiyo Noguchi(JPN) 3t7

IFSC Scoring

Competitors are scored by the number of boulders they top-out(t), in the lower number of attempts. 3t9 indicates 3 tops in 9 attempts.

Each boulder problem has a bonus hold in the middle, usually after the first “crux”. If there is a tie, competitors are ranked by the # of bonus holds(b) reached and the number of attempts taken to reach them.

It’s official! the 2013 National Climbing Championships have been announced and will be held at Neihu Sports Center Climbing Wall on the weekend of May 18th-19th. June 29-30th.

Sponsored by The North Face and organized by the Chinese Taipei Alpine Association,  the National Championships are a 2 day event and the biggest climbing competition in Taiwan. They’re always quite well-organized and covered by the mainstream media.

To get an idea of what it’s like, take a look at last year’s competition post.

Note: The official registration form is in Chinese. If you are a foreigner in Taiwan interested in competing and unable to fill the form, please Contact us and we will help you get registered.

Details below

Date: May 18-19th, 2013

Location: Neihu Sports Center Climbing Wall

Entry Qualifications: Climbers over the age of 16 who have the ability to lead climb safely.  Foreigners may participate but will not receive a final ranking or be chosen for the national team.

Divisions: 

Difficulty

• Men’s Open, Amateur
• Women’s Open, Amateur

Speed 

• Men’s Open, Amateur
• Women’s Open, Amateur