Guidebook+ Update – January 2015

GB+

Guidebook+ is a community-sourced digital update to “The Guidebook” – Rock Climbing TaiwanSince Rock Climbing Taiwan was published in 2012, a lot of changes have occurred at Long Dong including new routes being put up, old routes being chopped, reports of loose rock on certain routes, grade corrections and more.

In this latest update to GB+:

Fixe 304 bolts are found to be unreliable

Fixe 304 bolt

“Fixe 304″ bolts can be identified by the gecko on one side

“Fixe 304″ type bolts, found on many sport routes outside First Cave, as well as a few routes in Golden Valley and School Gate, have been found to be questionable and routes using them have been marked.

Loose Anchor Bolt in Cathouse

Kevin Juan reports of a loose left anchor bolt in the Cathouse area

Kevin Juan reports of a loose left anchor bolt in the Cathouse area

The left anchor bolt on the shared anchor of the Cathouse trad routes 101-104 has been found to rotate slightly in the hole. This bolt allegedly “will not come out” despite the looseness  but we prefer our anchor bolts non-moving so we’ve marked this route and other routes using this type of anchor setup.

B1 Chopped

The expansion bolts on the  sport routes at Backdoor B1 have all been chopped, making this a trad-only area now.

Skin Friction Crux Bolt Chopped

skin friction

During the debolt process the crux bolt of Skin Friction(#480, Clock Tower) broke by hammer strike and was subsequently removed. Without a crux bolt this climb is not safe to climb without supplemental trad gear.

 

Besides these major changes, many other changes have been made. For all the details, check out Guidebook+ directly for up to the minute information or download the latest copy of the PDF:

pdf

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