Guidebook+ Update July 2015

GB+

Guidebook+ contains the latest up to date route information at Long Dong since the publication of “Rock Climbing Taiwan” (2012)

The newest edition of Guidebook+ is out. The full version as always is available at tinyurl.com/GBPlus, while the PDF is available here.

We advise all local and visiting climbers to thoroughly take a look through this post and Guidebook Plus itself before climbing at Long Dong as there a number of safety related updates.

The latest changes:

Big Drum Anchors Failed on Lower

ofelia drum

Big Drum Anchors – photo by Ofelia Huang

Both Anchor bolts of popular climb Big Drum in Music Hall failed while a visiting climber lowered off the bolts. The climber was not hurt, but the failure means that Big Drum can no longer be safely climbed, and we strongly advise climbers to avoid neighboring climbs #367-384(including Fucking Fall, Fingercrack, and Wedding Route) until these climbs are rebolted as they were all bolted in the same year with the same type of bolt.

Cracked bolt found on First Cave Outer Wall

grass

A cracked bolt has been found on route 295 “Grass” outside First Cave

A cracked bolt has been found on #295 Grass on the 2nd pitch of the Outer Wall of the First Cave area. Many of the surrounding climbs in this section of Long Dong were bolted at the same time using the same “Fixe 304″ bolts and we highly advise climbers to exercise caution and check the latest bolt information before climbing in this area.

Great Pumpkin Bolt Broke

Broken Fixe "304" bolt- photo James Song

Broken Fixe “304″ bolt- photo James Song

Local climber James Song fell while working the crux of Great Pumpkin and broke the 5th bolt on Golden Valley classic Great pumpkin 5.11c, like its neighboring climbs Orange Juice and Tangerine Trip, Great Pumpkin has a number of older, “Fixe 304″ lead bolts which have been determined to be unreliable at Long Dong.

New development in Grand Auditorium

GA topos
Ryan Keenan and Garrreth Bird have developed a number of trad lines at
in the Grand Auditorium area from 5.10 to 5.12. Some of these lines are confirmed to be FAs as large amounts of loose rock were cleaned off on the ascent, whereas others are only claimed to be “first recent ascent”, as it is possible they were climbed in a similar state previously but not documented.

Route details are documented in GB+, and topos are available on dropbox here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lh3689b3wjo4lal/GA_wall_topo.pdf?dl=0

Safety Tips

Long Dong’s seaside location and subtropical climate mean that bolts here are not always reliable and climbers should educate themselves about bolting issues at seaside climbing areas as well as stay up to date on safety information with resources like GB+.

In addition to GB+, climbers interested in detailed route-by-route bolting information can check out Climbio’s Long Dong Bolt Dashboard. Made with the help of Nathan Ball, Climbio’s Long Dong Bolt Dashboard includes detailed, color coded records of which climbs use which bolts.

climbio bolts

Roughly speaking, Red colored bolts are considered to be dangerous, Yellow colored bolts may be questionable, and Green colored bolts are considered to be safe to climb on.

  1. One Response to “Guidebook+ Update July 2015”

  2. The failure on Big Drum has nothing to do with the bolt type, except that it’s made out of steel. According to industry experts, like Francis Haden in Hong Kong, the Petzl Collinox is actually one of the most resilient steel bolts in a seaside environment, because of its forged (rather than welded) design. The bolts were both installed with epoxy resin.

    Unfortunately, this means that ALL bolts of the same age at LD should be considered suspect, which is basically everything at School Gate, Disco Buttress, Long Lane, Music Hall (main face), Lower Dragon Ridge, and Backdoor B2.

    By Nate on Jul 30, 2015

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