Long Dong New Routes series – Jafar’s zaba-caba-dabra

Jafar’s zaba-caba-dabra 賈方的詭計

Grand Auditorium, trad, 5.10c

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Standard camalot rack to BD #4.  Double #0.5 and #0.75 if needed.

Follow the small, steep trail from a gazebo on top of the Grand Auditorium (orange line and arrows in the pic below) to the belay ledge of the second pitch of Via del Drago.  Then traverse about 5 meters to the left (yellow line. Roped belay needed).  There is another ledge (green block), the starting point of this route as well as “Jasmine Beauty” and “White Handsome Devil.”  Build a gear anchor there.  The red line is this route, and the blue block is where the top anchor should be set up.

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First, follow the very obvious crack in the middle of the face:

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The first several meters overlap the beginning part of “White Handsome Devil.”  Stop below a small roof and traverse to the left.  Then go up into the steep, solid, beautiful wide crack above:

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Then go all the way through and up to the top:

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There is no bolted anchor.  Use the natural features there to build belay station (pic below).  BE VERY CAREFUL of some loose rock blocks on top of the route.  Do not cause rockfall!

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This is an interesting route which requires a variety of skills. Enjoy!

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Info & Photos / Li-Chin Chuang (2018)

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