Long Dong New Routes series – Missionary 傳攀教士

There are some good new routes in Long Dong that is not in the guidebook!

Missionary 傳攀教士, also nicknamed “Sweet Potato Leaves (地瓜葉)”, First Cave, trad 5.10c, 4 pitches.

 

photo by Nathan Ball

One of the longest routes in Long Dong, cleaned and put up by a few climbers in 2016.  It is a super interesting combination of face, overhang, crack and chimney climbing. The total length is around 100 M.

Please note:

1. There are lots of loose rocks in the first cave area.  Be sure to wear a helmet.  The belayer should always be near a wall or under a roof.

2. Many bolts near this route haven’t been rebolted.  If you plan to use some of them, check Guidebook+ first for the latest bolt status update.

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1st pitch

Diagonal left of #280 to chimney (orange rope in the pic). 1 good 1 bad anchor.  You can also climb “#277 Sorry Erica,” “#278 Happy Valentine’s Day” or “#279 Wilson Overhang (pink rope in the pic)” and use the anchor for belay station on the big ledge.

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2nd pitch

Hand crack squeeze and V-shaped chimney (crux) up to a pair of titanium anchor. The most interesting part of the whole route.  Have fun!

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3rd pitch

Up to roof then left and up to grassy ledge, gear anchor (do not use the super old hangers here); from here can descend to Commissary for rappel.

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4th pitch

Crawl through tunnel (the pic above) to a pair of Ti bolts, then up crack; over loose rock to grassy ledge and dangerous runout to gazebo, or find solid bushes for anchor.  The climb itself is around 5.10b/c.  Not recommended due to VERY loose rock all the way.

Another option is to go straight up from the top of the 3rd pitch all the way to the gazebo.  It is about 5.10a R.  Beware of loose rock, too.

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Thanks to all those who helped the development of this route: Nathan Ball(P2 FA), Emma Huang, Lin Wang (P4 FA), Ya-te Chen (P2 FA), Li-chin Chuang, Ben Tsai, Hsiang Fang, Yu-ching Lee, Chu-hao Yang (P4 variation FA)，Phil Chin (P4 variation FA), 張元植 (P4 variation FA), 郭烜嘉(P4 FA), Fenchi Lin (P4 FA)