LD New Routes series – Red Dates Mochi 心太軟

There are some good new routes in Long Dong that is not in the guidebook!

Red Dates Mochi 心太軟, Music Hall (Broken Faces), trad 5.10b

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On the dark red wall right above the Broken Faces, you can see a thin crack going up to the very top.  It was put up and cleaned by Cheang Qing Xin and Kelly Khiew in early 2016.  The name “Red Dates Mochi” is the sweet they ate the day they sent the route.

Start from the top anchor of routes #338-342.  The first half of the route requires some tiny gears.  C4 0.1~0.4 and a few small nuts are handy.  Watch the thin flakes that may break.

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Then traverse to the right and continue climbing the hand size crack to the top.  Holds are not bad, but the wall is steeper (and tiring) for this part.

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Rock quality is generally good for solid protection.  15M.  C4 #0.1~3.  The top anchor is two titanium bolts, set in 2016.

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Photos and info credit: Cheang Qing Xin

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