Long Dong Bolting Update 2014


Since 2012, a major rebolt effort led by the Doc and sponsored by donations from climbers in Taiwan has made popular sport climbs at Long Dong safer. Made up of numerous respected climbers in the Taiwanese community including Two-Teeth, Jinlung, The Doc, Tiger, I-Chiau(aka old man), A-Lang and more, the rebolt team has placed over 602 marine grade SS bolts in the past 2 years, replacing faulty expansion bolts and older-style glue-ins.

This week the rebolt team has released the latest update of “Long Dong Rebolt Progress” the official record of the rebolting effort at Long Dong. The latest update includes all work done in 2014.

Compared to previous years where there was more major rebolting and bolting of new lines, this year’s updates have been relatively tame and limited to fixing problem bolts and making older anchors more robust. The most notable change this year is the use of Titanium– a very corrosion resistant metal well suited to sea-side crags like Long Dong.

Without ado the latest changes this year are:

  • Backdoor #350 Incomparable has had problem bolt rebolted
  • Backdoor #55 Mantel has 2 bolts rebolted at the traverse
  • Backdoor #56 Twisting has had the 2nd to last bolt replaced
  • First Cave #293 La La La now has titanium top anchors
  • First Cave #294 Floweret now has titanium top anchors
  • First Cave #295 Grass now has titanium top anchors
  • First Cave #296 Kimchi now has titanium top anchors
  • Music Hall #350 Reluctant  has had the problem anchor bolt rebolted with titanium
  • Music Hall #369 Big Drum has a new first bolt
  • Music Hall #371 Fingercrack’s anchor now has 1 titanium bolt in addition to the existing glue-in
  • Long Lane #432 Rated R and #433 Rated PG’s shared anchor reinforced with 1 titanium bolt
  • Long Lane #434 Rated G has had 2 bolts at the fork from Rated R rebolted
  • Long Lane #448 Skyhook has had anchors reinforced with 1 titanium bolt

For those who want more details about this update and the 2012-2014 reboltings, Nathan Ball has helpfully translated the original Chinese “2014龍洞re-bolt進度列表” into English here: Rebolt Project(English)

The above updates as well as all reboltings and changes known are also recorded in an easy to digest fashion in Guidebook+, a public database of changes and updates since the 2012 publication of “Rock Climbing Taiwan”.

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