Long Dong New Routes series – Starbuck

Starbuck 星巴克

Whale’s head, trad, 5.10b (route #4 in the picture below)

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photo by Nathan Ball

Start from the top anchor of Moby Dick and climb the arête (left of Call Me Ishmael) all the way up to the top.   The start is a bouldering move that requires some strength, and the protection of the second half of the route is a bit tricky.  Small gears may be handy.  Camalots to BD #2.  12 meters.  Use the big boulder on the top or the titanium anchor of Shield for top belay (a bit far).  For descending, rappel twice if you use a rope shorter than 70m.

15875209_960353370774916_3700976048404475467_oview of the route from the starting ledge

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view on top of Starbuck (photo by Kai-ming Lo)

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