Long Dong New Routes series – the Second Pitch of Freedom Crack

Freedom Crack, the second (and third) pitch

Great Auditorium, trad 5.9

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Freedom Crack is one of the most visible and beautiful cracks in the Grand Auditorium.  There is actually a second pitch that goes from the top anchor straight above to another pair of top bolts.  The start is a little overhang with solid cracks for jams and protection.  Then there is a 6-m long slabby easy runout.  Be careful of small loose rocks on the last part.  Gears from the first pitch should be enough.  About 20m.

Note: In the breeding season of protected Peregrine falcons, the top of this pitch is one of their favorite nest sites.  Please do not climb in Grand Auditorium and this route in particular if seasonal closure is announced.

P1: top anchor of Freedom Crack.  P2: top anchor of the second pitch.  After that the route can be linked to the last part of Topout which leads to the trail on the ridge; this part can hardly be protected with the loose rocks and grassy slope all the way.  Not recommended.  Total length of these three pitches (blue line): about 90m.

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