Long Dong New Routes series – White Handsome Devil

White Handsome Devil白色帥氣惡魔

Grand Auditorium, trad, 5.10b/c

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Grand Auditorium is the place for inexhaustible trad exploration!

“White Handsome Devil,” not documented in the 2012 LD guidebook, is a short yet fun climb that can top out Grand Auditorium.  It can be climbed as a multi-pitch with the first pitch anywhere near the first pitch of Via del Drago.  Choose your route to get to the big belay ledge.  Or it can be a single pitch climb – just walk the small, steep trail to the starting platform of the second pitch of Via del Drago, and then traverse (roped belay needed, see the photo below) to the left about 5 meters to get to the belay ledge.

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Build a gear station here and start climbing up.  Follow the obvious crack up the face.  It starts as a hand crack and then narrows to finger size, then when you meet a gentle overhang, it widens a bit, and then becomes narrow again.  A test to your ability in dealing with different kinds of cracks!

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There is no bolted anchor on the top.  Use the natural features to build a trad anchor.

Up to BD camalot #2.  Nuts may be helpful.

Rock quality of the route is mostly good, but be super careful of the potential loose blocks near the top.  Do not touch nor cause them to fall!

Big thanks to those who cleaned, put up, and documented this route: Nathan Ball, Emma Huang, Jeff Lin (2015).

Photos by Nathan Ball & Yung-hui Hsu

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