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Our Blog is below, with the latest Taiwan climbing news.

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Long Dong New Routes series – Starbuck

Starbuck 星巴克

Whale’s head, trad, 5.10b (route #4 in the picture below)

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photo by Nathan Ball

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Long Dong New Routes series – Jafar’s zaba-caba-dabra

Jafar’s zaba-caba-dabra 賈方的詭計

Grand Auditorium, trad, 5.10c

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Standard camalot rack to BD #4.  Double #0.5 and #0.75 if needed.

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National Bouldering Competition on Sep. 15-16, 2018

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2018 Climbing Technology National Bouldering Competition is going to be held on Sep. 15-16 in Civic Bouldering Gym, Taipei.  Registration is open for everyone until Aug. 31.  For more details, please check the official page.

La Sportiva “Climb in Gym” Tour in Taiwan (Jul.~Aug.2018)

“Climb in Gym” Test & Feel Tour by La Sportiva will take place in July and August in several climbing gyms across Taiwan.  Paying an entrance fee, you can try various La Sportiva climbing shoes and enjoy interesting routes.  Check the event website (in Chinese) and find a gym nearest for you!

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Picture taken from the official event website.

Update of bolt status in Long Dong(Oct. 2017~May 2018)

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Most dangerous old bolts on Euro Wall have been removed.

#78 Lava Tube & #79 Bird’s Nest: There are cracks in the glue of the first bolts. Please do not climb.

#123 Snake Alley: Top anchor bolts for both pitches renewed with Titanium.

#114-123 (most of Euro Wall): All old bolts on these routes are removed.  Please climb with traditional gears.

#237 Desert: Top anchor rebolted with Titanium.

#252 Genesis: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#273 Heart-shaped Rice Cake & #274 Black Heart Pig’s Blood Cake: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#275 Good Morning Long Dong & #276 Bolt Bolt Shortage: Top anchors rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#369 Big Drum: Two new lead bolts added.

#431 Golden Gate Roof: one new lead bolt added before the crux.

#480 Skin Friction: fully rebolted with Titanium.

Thanks to all those who have helped the rebolt and debolt work!

 

<note> While many routes are now rebolted and climbable, do not overlook the risk of rockfall for routes located in certain areas (such as the First Cave). 

 

Also, please take in mind:

- Some routes are rebolted with the old ones remaining on the wall.  Do not use the bad ones.

- For the latest bolt status update, please check Climbio or Guidebook+.

 

Photo by Pei-Hsuan Ku