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Our Blog is below, with the latest Taiwan climbing news.


R.I.P. Hayden Kennedy(2017.10.07)

In early October of 2017, accomplished alpinist and climber Hayden Kennedy (age 27) and his partner Inge Perkins (23) died in an avalanche in a skiing trip.  According to related report, Hayden chose to take his life after he freed himself from the snow but could not locate his partner during the search for her.


photo source

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First Female 9b by Angy Eiter!

Austrian climber Angy Eiter has become the first woman to climb 9b (5.15b). She has trained over two years for the route La Planta de Shiva.  “I knew it was my style and I was inspired by the moves, which I guess was the key to my success.”



(photo from Angy Eiter’s FB)

Massive rockfall in Yosemite (Sep. 2017)


On Sep. 27 and 28, 2017, massive rockfall hit the eastern face of El Cap, Yosemite, on “Waterfall Route.”  The size of the initial rock that broke off the wall was estimated to be as large as 40M*20M*3M, followed by even larger-scaled rockfall events the next day in the same place.  It has caused at least one death and two injuries.

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How much slack is too much in lead belay?

How much slack is too slack while sport lead belaying?

Is there any differences in the speed and force in a fall when you give more / less slack?

A pair of climbers tried to find the answer in their video “Overcoming the Fear of Falling: Too much Slack while Lead Belaying?“  They concluded that in dynamic belay (IMPORTANT!!), belaying with some rope slack results in the softest catches if there is no possibility of decking.  On the other hand, in hard catches, slack may make things worse.  *Please note that the conclusion is for sport climbing only.



2017 Long Dong Autumn Cleanup

Long Dong’s Autumn Cleanup will happen October 21st.

This time around, Taiwan’s own Redpoint Brewing Co. has donated beer, so you can come out and clean up Long Dong and drink some Long Dong Lager!

LD Fall cleanup