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Our Blog is below, with the latest Taiwan climbing news.

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National Bouldering Competition on Sep. 15-16, 2018

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2018 Climbing Technology National Bouldering Competition is going to be held on Sep. 15-16 in Civic Bouldering Gym, Taipei.  Registration is open for everyone until Aug. 31.  For more details, please check the official page.

La Sportiva “Climb in Gym” Tour in Taiwan (Jul.~Aug.2018)

“Climb in Gym” Test & Feel Tour by La Sportiva will take place in July and August in several climbing gyms across Taiwan.  Paying an entrance fee, you can try various La Sportiva climbing shoes and enjoy interesting routes.  Check the event website (in Chinese) and find a gym nearest for you!

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Picture taken from the official event website.

Update of bolt status in Long Dong(Oct. 2017~May 2018)

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Most dangerous old bolts on Euro Wall have been removed.

#78 Lava Tube & #79 Bird’s Nest: There are cracks in the glue of the first bolts. Please do not climb.

#123 Snake Alley: Top anchor bolts for both pitches renewed with Titanium.

#114-123 (most of Euro Wall): All old bolts on these routes are removed.  Please climb with traditional gears.

#237 Desert: Top anchor rebolted with Titanium.

#252 Genesis: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#273 Heart-shaped Rice Cake & #274 Black Heart Pig’s Blood Cake: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#275 Good Morning Long Dong & #276 Bolt Bolt Shortage: Top anchors rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#369 Big Drum: Two new lead bolts added.

#431 Golden Gate Roof: one new lead bolt added before the crux.

#480 Skin Friction: fully rebolted with Titanium.

Thanks to all those who have helped the rebolt and debolt work!

 

<note> While many routes are now rebolted and climbable, do not overlook the risk of rockfall for routes located in certain areas (such as the First Cave). 

 

Also, please take in mind:

- Some routes are rebolted with the old ones remaining on the wall.  Do not use the bad ones.

- For the latest bolt status update, please check Climbio or Guidebook+.

 

Photo by Pei-Hsuan Ku

Where to resole climbing shoes in Taiwan?

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There are not many options of resoling climbing shoes in Taiwan.  The most popular shops used to be the “Doctor of Hiking Shoes (登山鞋醫生)” in Taipei and a shoemaker in Tainan City.  However, neither of them is specialized in climbing shoes.  After resoling, the rubber and shape of shoes are quite different from the original, and repaired shoes typically cannot last for a long time before splitting or peeling again.

Huo-Yun (火雲鞋神) is the first professional climbing shoe resoler in Taiwan.  Although not as cheap as the options above, it uses Vibram XSGrip rubber, and considers the original shape and special features of each pair of shoes.  It is the current best option to prolong the life of your beloved, high-class climbing shoes.

Read the rest of this entry »

Where to climb in Long Dong in a HOT summer day?

19942610_10155513173034127_7250881545312660796_o Where to climb in Long Dong in a HOT summer day? The summer heat in Taiwan is unbearable.  Long Dong is located by the seaside, and this makes it a cooler and less rainy place in summer compared to the Taipei City.   Still, it is a very bad idea to climb under the scorching sun: it can be very easy to get serious heat stroke, heat exhaustion, or dehydration. There are some ways to cope with the problem of heat:

-          set up a tarp

-          adjust your climbing schedule (e.g. to arrive at Long Dong around noon or in the afternoon and climb until 18:30 – the daytime in summer is quite long after all!)

-          bring a lot of water or icy drinks <important!!>

-          choose climbing areas wisely

Here are some useful tips on the most suitable climbing areas in summer. Read the rest of this entry »