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Our Blog is below, with the latest Taiwan climbing news.

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TGG Bouldering Gym Opens in Taoyuan County

TGG
A new bouldering gym opens today in Yangmei District, Taoyuan County. Run by Stone Squad member Digua, TGG or TG2 Bouldering Gym has 4 meter high walls and occupies 25 ping (~85 sq. m).

Tgg2

Nearby Yangmei Train station, TGG gym is located about 15minutes away by foot making it fairly accessible by public transportation, but if you’re living in Taoyuan you’re probably gonna get here by scooter or car.

The new gym joins NCU, Yam, and Shuimei climbing gyms in Taoyuan, but with high quality holds, and routesetting by STONE squad members, is by far the best option for serious climbers.

Location水美里梅高路92號 (Location pinned manually as Google Maps does not map this address correctly. )

Hours: 5-11pm Monday, Wednesdays and Fridays with weekend hours posted on the facebook page. 

Pricing: $150 for adults and $120 for students.

photos courtesy TGG Bouldering Gym

Guidebook+ Update July 2015

GB+

Guidebook+ contains the latest up to date route information at Long Dong since the publication of “Rock Climbing Taiwan” (2012)

The newest edition of Guidebook+ is out. The full version as always is available at tinyurl.com/GBPlus, while the PDF is available here.

We advise all local and visiting climbers to thoroughly take a look through this post and Guidebook Plus itself before climbing at Long Dong as there a number of safety related updates.

The latest changes:

Big Drum Anchors Failed on Lower

ofelia drum

Big Drum Anchors – photo by Ofelia Huang

Both Anchor bolts of popular climb Big Drum in Music Hall failed while a visiting climber lowered off the bolts. The climber was not hurt, but the failure means that Big Drum can no longer be safely climbed, and we strongly advise climbers to avoid neighboring climbs #367-384(including Fucking Fall, Fingercrack, and Wedding Route) until these climbs are rebolted as they were all bolted in the same year with the same type of bolt.

Cracked bolt found on First Cave Outer Wall

grass

A cracked bolt has been found on route 295 “Grass” outside First Cave

A cracked bolt has been found on #295 Grass on the 2nd pitch of the Outer Wall of the First Cave area. Many of the surrounding climbs in this section of Long Dong were bolted at the same time using the same “Fixe 304″ bolts and we highly advise climbers to exercise caution and check the latest bolt information before climbing in this area.

Great Pumpkin Bolt Broke

Broken Fixe "304" bolt- photo James Song

Broken Fixe “304″ bolt- photo James Song

Local climber James Song fell while working the crux of Great Pumpkin and broke the 5th bolt on Golden Valley classic Great pumpkin 5.11c, like its neighboring climbs Orange Juice and Tangerine Trip, Great Pumpkin has a number of older, “Fixe 304″ lead bolts which have been determined to be unreliable at Long Dong.

New development in Grand Auditorium

GA topos
Ryan Keenan and Garrreth Bird have developed a number of trad lines at
in the Grand Auditorium area from 5.10 to 5.12. Some of these lines are confirmed to be FAs as large amounts of loose rock were cleaned off on the ascent, whereas others are only claimed to be “first recent ascent”, as it is possible they were climbed in a similar state previously but not documented.

Route details are documented in GB+, and topos are available on dropbox here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lh3689b3wjo4lal/GA_wall_topo.pdf?dl=0

Safety Tips

Long Dong’s seaside location and subtropical climate mean that bolts here are not always reliable and climbers should educate themselves about bolting issues at seaside climbing areas as well as stay up to date on safety information with resources like GB+.

In addition to GB+, climbers interested in detailed route-by-route bolting information can check out Climbio’s Long Dong Bolt Dashboard. Made with the help of Nathan Ball, Climbio’s Long Dong Bolt Dashboard includes detailed, color coded records of which climbs use which bolts.

climbio bolts

Roughly speaking, Red colored bolts are considered to be dangerous, Yellow colored bolts may be questionable, and Green colored bolts are considered to be safe to climb on.

Big Drum Anchors Fail on Lower

ofelia drum

Big Drum Anchors – photo by Ofelia Huang

Ofelia Huang reports that on Friday July 24th, the anchors of popular sport climb #369 Big Drum in Music Hall failed while a climber was lowering off them to the ground. The anchors failed when the climber was around 4m from the ground. The climber sustained minor injuries but is reported to be fine.

The type of bolts used are Petzl Collinox bolts made of 316L stainless steel, making this the first failure of a 316 “Marine grade” stainless steel bolt at Long Dong.

Update (August 26, 2015): It has been confirmed by Petzl America that the bolts in the photo and in this incident were actually 304 grade stainless steel.

The surrounding climbs #367 Fucking Fall and #370 Finger Crack , Musical Arete and 383 Wedding Route use the same Petzl Collinox bolts and we recommend climbers to avoid all of these popular climbs at this point until the routes are rebolted.

For Sale – 15 Degree System Board with Atomik Training Holds

pauls wall 1

A 15 degree training board with Atomik System training holds is up for sale in Tienmu.  Measuring 1.5m wide by 3m high, the board and holds can be bought together or separately.

The list of holds covers all grip positions and includes:

  • 2 x med slopers
  • 2 x shallow slopers
  • 2 x slopey jugs
  • 2 x jugs
  • 4 x large pockets
  • 4 x shallow 2-finger pockets
  • 2 x deep two-finger pockets
  • 2 x easy pinches
  • 2 x mod hard pinches
  • 2 x hard pinches
  • 2 x very hard pinches
  • 4 x flat crimps
  • 5 x incut crimps
  • 9 x incut edges
  • 9 x randomly shaped holds
  • 1x screw on round pinch/sloper
  • lots of screwon footchips and small crimps

pauls wall 2

Also available is a set of woodworking tools for modifying the board as well as a stepladder for setting.

For inquiries please contact Paul at jeanpauldevilliers ( at ) gmail (dot) com

Photo of the Month – May 2015

jay jay neihu

photo by Yucheng Su

JayJay eyes the clip in the 5.11 Division Finals of the 2015 Neihu Spring Competition.

The Neihu Spring Comp was an informal climbing competition held at Neihu Sports Center. Men and women competed together in a rare co-ed style event with three divisions including elementary school, 5.10 and 5.11 divisions.