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Becoming a Better Climber

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Dominik Lorenz cruises a balancy route in the Long Lane – photo Moriteam

Author: Jean Paul De Villiers

There seems to be a belief that a good climber is a strong climber, and by strong I mean someone who can climb 5.13. Routes this hard require impressive strength and consummate skill, and those who climb such lines inspire awe in the rest of us. However, strength and skill are only two of the many qualities indispensable to the well-rounded rock climber.

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“Rock Climbing Taiwan” 2016 — an English guidebook of many climbing areas across Taiwan

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“Rock Climbing Taiwan” is written in 2016 by Nathan Ball.  It contains a great deal of information  of many climbing areas that had scattered or only word-of-mouth information before, including details and topos of Rehai 熱海, Shoushan 壽山, Heren 和仁, Kenting 墾丁大尖山, and the big wall of Zhenshan 針山大岩壁.  Many new routes and new areas in Long Dong, Rehai and Shoushan that have been put up in recent years are also included in this ebook.

Thanks to all those help putting up and making records of these areas and routes.  There are indeed still many places in Taiwan with great climbing potential!

*Note: Some climbing areas in this ebook are located in restricted zones and may require a permit.

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Extending a Quickdraw

 

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pic source

Oftentimes when climbing, we encounter situations where we need a longer draw. A route which wanders, a roof, or if you’re trad climbing, a piece that may walk out of place are all good reasons to want some length on that draw.

It’s  a good idea for any sport climber to own 2 to 3 long draws. These can either be store-bought, or self made – simply buy a long dogbone from the climbing store, remove the carabiners from one of your regular quickdraws, and install them on the dogbone, making sure to put the top carabiner in the loose side and the bottom carabiner in the tight side of the bone.

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Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering Guidebooks

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With many years’ efforts, a few great natural bouldering areas are cleaned and well documented mostly by Roger Wu along with other fellow boulderers.  Detailed guidebooks are accessible here, including:

- Da Bao 大豹溪(New Taipei City)

- Ping Lai 坪瀨溪(Nantou County)

- Xiao Wu Lai 小烏來 (Taoyuan County), also in Climbio

For supplement, there are two other locations published years earlier:

Shui Chang Liu 水長流(Nantou County), also in Climbio. Credit / iClimb

Feng shan 豐山(Chiayi County). Credit / Roger Wu

You can also ask for or share information in the Facebook Page of Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering.

Pick up your shoes, crash pads, brushes, and go discover the charms of natural bouldering of Taiwan!

 

Photo from Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering FB

LD New Routes series – Missionary 傳攀教士

There are some good new routes in Long Dong that is not in the guidebook!

Missionary 傳攀教士, also nicknamed “Sweet Potato Leaves (地瓜葉)”, First Cave, trad 5.10c, 4 pitches.

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photo by Nathan Ball Read the rest of this entry »