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Photo of the Month – May 2015

jay jay neihu

photo by Yucheng Su

JayJay eyes the clip in the 5.11 Division Finals of the 2015 Neihu Spring Competition.

The Neihu Spring Comp was an informal climbing competition held at Neihu Sports Center. Men and women competed together in a rare co-ed style event with three divisions including elementary school, 5.10 and 5.11 divisions.

 

The Bivy Climber’s Hostel Opens Near Long Dong

bivy

The Bivy is open! Taiwan’s first climbing hostel, the Bivy is located in picturesque Bitou Cape, right before the tunnel to Long Dong Village. Opened by professional guiding outfit QxAdventures, the hostel has a 6 bed dorm room priced at 500 a night per person, and a private 2 person bedroom upstairs priced at 1200 per night for the room.

The twin bed room

The twin bed room

While the location is not as ideal as the guesthouse in Long Dong village, the drink selection is significantly better with a simple bar area stocked with local Taiwan beer as well as Kirin, filtered water, and all important coffee – the real stuff, not Mr. Brown. Yes, there’s Wifi.

bivy beer

The Bivy’s first guest – Chris from Germany

To book a room at the Bivy, contact them through their Facebook page or their # in Taiwan – 09 1639 7826.  Shuttle service to and from the crag seems to be available if you ask nicely…

dorms

The dorm room on a busy weekend

2015 Long Dong Spring Cleanup(5/16)

2015Spring Cleanup

Five-Twelve in Five Months

photo - Mai Todo

photo – Mai Todo

24 years old, 173cm and 62kg, , Jeff Lau is a normal looking guy with hipster black frames matching a trendy mop of black hair. Outside of a jaunty hoop earring(black) he’d be hard to pick out of a lineup of Taiwanese climbers. But get him on the wall and he’s on a completely different level.

Whereas most climbers with a few months of experience are working on silver-level(v2-v4) boulder problems and wrestling with 5.10 routes, Jeff is  sprinting up yellows and reds(v4-V8) at STONE bouldering gym – routes that climbing veterans years his senior have trouble tackling.

Hailing from London, Jeff Lau started climbing regularly in the summer of 2014 and has advanced incredibly quickly. Bouldering gyms naturally breed strong kids good at pulling hard on neon holds, but Jeff is no mere prince of plastic. 5 months since he started climbing regularly, Jeff has redpointed two separate routes routes outdoors rated 5.12a — and one of those was a flash.

We sat down with Jeff recently to find out more about his accomplishments on rock and what sets him apart from other climbers.

What was your first trip climbing outside like?
Read the rest of this entry »

Photo of the Month – March 2015

kellyahabqx

Photo by QxAdventures

Shot by Cheang Qing Xin of QxAdventures.

Kelly Khiew gets some air on her send of Captain Ahab, a super exposed trad 5.11a 25 meters up on the Whales Head in Music Hall.

QxAdventures are currently building a new climbing hostel for climbers going to Long Dong. Located in Bitou Cape, a quaint fishing village right before the final tunnel to Long Dong, The Bivy climber’s hostel will feature Wifi, coffee, and other amenities missing from the existing hostel in Long Dong village, which has received lackluster reviews.