破舊二廠

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介紹: 台中地區又多了一個岩場!岩板角度與大型岩點不少,可以出很多有趣變化的路線

攀岩方式: 抱石(約4M)
地址:台中市台中市烏日區健行路131號
(若無交通工具,從成功火車站走過去最近,約20分鐘內)
電話:0919 175 471
營業時間:
週一-週五: 17:30 – 22:30
週六-週日: 9:00 – 17:00

費用:
全票200元 /次, 學生票160元/次
十日券1,500元/10次(可共用)
成人季卡3,000 元;半年卡5,400元; 年卡9,600元
學生季卡2,400 元;半年卡4,000元; 年卡7,500元

備註:
會員優惠、課程資訊請洽岩場

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Xizhi Bouldering Gym Review

In the last two years, shiny new sports centers have started popping up in New Taipei City, each with its own Entreprises-built climbing wall. The quality and design of these contract-built climbing facilities has varied greatly, but the Xizhi one, with its angular, orange, white, and gray panels, and Mallorca-esque arch shape has been tantalizingly promising.

Xizhi Outer

Situated on the second floor of a swimming pool, the climbing gym itself occupies the entire level and is surprisingly spacious

It’s not the biggest climbing wall in town – STONE wins that race by a mile, but it uses its 218 square meters of climbing space well. Every facet of the main boulder has climbable area for a surprising amount of climbing packed into a moderately sized structure. The island style boulder design also creates a totally different experience from typical climbing gyms where the walls surround the climbers. Here the climbing area is center stage, surrounded by plenty of space for climbers to rest and spectate.

Amenities

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Downward dog your heart out

Amenities here are as good as you’ll find in Taipei – no foot baths, but you have a yoga and stretching area with foam rollers, simple but ample spectator seating, tables to eat or relax at, and a TV to watch climbing videos on. A slackline, and fingerboard are supposed to be in the works as well.

The bathrooms are Taipei sports center quality – clean, with water dispensers and showers. Whereas Red Rock has one stingily-used wall mounted AC cooling the entire gym, Xizhi has the real thing – five commercial grade units blasting arctic temperatures at full strength. This may be the most comfortable climbing gym in Taipei.

Climbing

Xizhi Stitch

The climbing itself is a mix of incredible terrain held back by mediocre routesetting. The wall itself is world-class. The arch is a multifaceted, geometric wonder with every angle and shape you could think of. From vertical, slab, and slightly overhung to roof, to multi-angled terrain. Climbing this thing is akin to climbing something outside, dihedrals, aretes and all.

However, uninspired holds and routesetting detract from the experience. The holds on the wall are sourced completely from the wall manufacturer – EP. While you’ll find every type of hold on the wall – from crimps to slopers to jugs or pinches, what you won’t find is much variety – many holds are repeated, and all the holds feature the same coarse texture and matte color scheme common to EP holds.

The routes are ostensibly color-coded, but routefinding is still frustratingly difficult on many walls because holds of the same color are used closely together on different routes. I talked to the setter and he said they will use tape to help delineate routes, but for the time being it’s difficult at best and impossible many times to isolate a single route on a wall.

The quality of the setting itself is not stellar, but not that bad. However route difficulty is bipolar – either quite easy  or very hard, with little middle ground. Along with the colored hold issue, this makes climbing the set routes an exercise in mild frustration.

Despite all this the gym is somehow still quite fun to climb at. There are enough holds on the wall to make up interesting routes on any part of the wall fairly easily. Ignore the colors, make up your own routes, play around on the mutli-faceted terrain, and you’ll have a good time.

For Location, Pricing and other Details visit our climbing gym entry for Xizhi Bouldering Gym  

Bonus Bouldering Gym

Description:  A bouldering gym near Hualien Train Station
Type of Climbing: Bouldering(2.5m)
Location:  花蓮市國民一街38號3F
Phone:0966 475 655
Stone Bouldering Gym FB
Opening Hours:
M,T: 6pm-10pm
W:2pm-8pm
Th,F:6pm-10pm
Weekends by appointment(call or message by FB)
Price:
Regular: $220/day | Students: $150/day

30 tickets: $5,500 | Month Pass: $1,520 | Year Pass: $16,400

Shoe rental: $50

Notes: 
Not a huge place, but has a variety of angles to play on.
There’s a bathroom, chillout area, kitchen, bar, foot shower, and climbing books(yes in English too!). This space is also available to be rented out on the weekends for $3000 for 2 hours.

bonus-2 bonus3 bonus4 bonus1

T-Up Bouldering Gym


Description
: A very large, very well designed bouldering gym on the border of Taoyuan and Hsinchu.
Offers: Bouldering(4-4.5m), Toprope/Lead(8.5m)

Location: Lane 99 No.20, Meigao Road, Yangmei District, Taoyuan
This part of Taiwan is not mapped correctly by Google, but clicking the address will lead you to the correct location.
Directions: Heading north on Meigao road, take first left, right after the bridge (There is a blue Chinese sign, as well as a pink T-up Bouldering Gym sign.)
Phone: 0922 389 869
T-Up Bouldering Gym
Hours: M-F 3pm-11pm, Weekends 10am-10pm

Pricing: Weekdays $280 or $230 after 8:30. Weekends $340 whole day or $280 per period(10-2,2-6,6-10)
Discounted memberships and Student prices available.

Rating: ★★★★½ 

Notes: T-up is currently the largest bouldering gym in Taiwan.

It features tons of climbing on great holds and walls in a comfortable and well thought out environment. The first floor features two sizable climbing areas as well as a corner dedicated to a 8.5m toprope wall. The second floor features world-class training facilities, a kid’s area, and a whole other climbing wall.

The routes here are fairly well set, and feature fantastic holds. Combined with the liberal use of volumes and variety of wall angles, this gym is worth the trek(and the price!) whether you live in Taoyuan, Hsinchu, or even Taipei.

紅石攀岩

介紹:  台北市靠近士林夜市的頂級抱石館。
攀岩方式: 抱石(3m)
地址:  承德路四段261號B1
電話: (02) 2883 7591
Stone Bouldering Gym FB
營業時間: 平日16:00-22:30 . 假日 9:00-21:00
費用: $250/一次

Rating: ★★★★½ 

詳情: 紅石是台灣第一間用單色訂線的抱石館。空間夠大,有空調,有飲水機,路線好玩,有不同角度的牆壁,和這邊有頂級的訓練器材。

因為牆壁只到3m高和這邊簡單的路線(“白色”)不是那麼多,所以STONE和信儀會更適合新手。但如果你可以挑戰“銀色”路線(v2-v3),這是台北地區的頂級抱石館。