New Bouldering Gym Opening June 19th Near Shilin Night Market

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Taipei City’s third bouldering gym, Red Rock, opens this Friday June 19th near Shilin Night Market.

Housed in a spacious 300 square meter underground facility, the new gym is located 11 minutes walking distance from Jiantan MRT station. With tons of climbing space, monochrome routesetting, and–no joke– air conditioning, Red Rock sets a new standard for bouldering gyms in Taiwan.

We took a sneak peek at the gym and we liked what we saw.

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Red Rock is the first gym in Taiwan with Monochrome setting. No more spending minutes looking for a route, only to forget the holds when you’re on the wall.

Monochrome setting also means the holds are chosen specifically for the route. Taiwan’s gyms traditionally use the Japanese style of routesetting where holds go up first, and routes are made later and marked with tape or metal plates. While minor adjustments do happen, for the most part this limits routesetters to what’s on the wall. At Red Rock, each route uses its own set of holds, resulting in problems that feel more specific, more “tailor-fit”. Compared to other gyms in Taiwan, you’ll find more forced moves, technical footwork and body-position dependent problems.

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Besides solid setting, Red Rock brings superb training facilities. With steep walls up to 60 degrees, multiple campus boards, a Rock Prodigy Training Center fingerboard, Olympic Rings, and even a Moonboard, this place is undoubtedly now the number one place in the the country for getting strong.

Quality comes at a cost — Red Rock’s pricing is $250, the highest in Taiwan, up there with STONE’s weekend pricing. During the opening weekend from 6/19 to 6/21 Red Rock is offering a 2 for one deal on day passes. These don’t expire, so you can hoard them for later use if so inclined.

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Red Rock is located 11 min walking distance from Jiantan station at No.261 B1 Chengde Rd section 4, and there are youbike stations at Jiantan station and Shilin sports center to cut that trip in half. This makes it one of the most convenient gyms in Taipei.

Red Rocks’ professional staff, 3 meter high walls and sweet location are all reminiscent of the legendary LZS bouldering gym that gathered Taipei climbers of all walks of life together into one convenient urban climbing gym. Will it live up to the hype?  Time will only tell.

 Pictures courtesy Red Rock Climbing Gym

永和運動中心攀岩場

介紹:新北市量體最大的攀岩場,包含符合國際賽事標準之上攀場、抱石場與速度賽牆
攀岩方式: 先鋒攀登 , 頂繩攀登 (12m),  抱石 (4.5m)

地址: 永和區永利路250號6樓
營業時間: 週二至週五13:00-22:00,週六至週日09:00-22:00 ,週一公休
電話: 0905 657 107

費用: 請看以下費用表
詳情: 一個很好的攀岩舘,抱石,先鋒,Toprope都有。路綫設計不錯。。空間大,舒服,夏天有冷氣吹。

Rating: ★★★★½ 


Red Rock Bouldering Gym

Description:  A top-notch Bouldering Gym near Shilin Night Market.
Offers: Bouldering(3m)
Location: Basement of a carwash located at  承德路四段261號B1
Phone: (02) 2883 7591
Stone Bouldering Gym FB
Hours: Weekdays 4-10:30pm . Weekends 9am-9pm
Pricing: $250 per visit

Rating: ★★★★½ 

Notes: Taiwan’s first gym with monochrome setting, this fairly spacious underground bouldering gym is run by experienced climbers and it shows in the competent setting, variety of wall angles, and superior training facilities including multiple campus boards, fingerboards, and even a Moonboard.

The wide variety of high quality holds, the colorful walls, the air conditioning(crucial for taiwanese summers) and water cooler set this gym apart from the pack.

Because of a 3m height and stiff setting, STONE and Xinyi are better choices for beginners, but for those able to climb silvers(V2-V3), Red Rock is as good or better than STONE.

Yonghe Sports Center Climbing Gym

Description:The biggest, baddest sports center climbing gym in Taipei.
Offers: Lead, Toprope (12m),  Bouldering(4.5m)

Address: 234, New Taipei City, Yonghe District, Yongli Rd
Hours: Tuesday to Friday- 1pm to 10pm, Weekends- 9am to 10pm, closed Mondays
Phone: 0905 657 107

Price: 9am-12pm $150, 1pm-5pm $180, 6-10pm $280
Hourly rates are also available – $80/hr during peak times(weekdays after 6pm, weekends after 1pm), $50/hr otherwise

Notes: A spacious gym with good setting. Both lead and toprope are represented, and even a auto belay. There is AC as well, making it a good choice for the summer.

Rating: ★★★★½ 


內湖運動中心攀岩館

介紹:這個攀岩館戶外部分有點高度。室內部分有一個小抱石區。有教練在場。
攀岩方式: 先鋒攀登 , 頂繩攀登 (15m),  抱石 (3m)

地址: 台北市內湖區洲仔街12號
營業時間: 每日 09:00-22:00
電話: 02 2656 0052
Neihu Sports Center Climbing Gym Facebook Neihu Sports Center ClimbIO website Icon
費用: 室內抱石 $50. 戶外攀岩 $150。票卷 $3300/ 30張。
票在服務台買。買完後在攀岩區簽名註冊。
 費用仔細說明

Rating: ★★★★½ 

評論:
內湖不錯,有台北最高的人工岩壁。左邊overhang真的有點難度!

優點

  • 這邊的教練懂攀岩。相信這邊的攀岩課程應該也蠻專業的。
  • 最近定了一些不錯的上攀和抱石路線
  • 牆壁,器材,岩點都保持的良好
  • Overhang牆下雨天還是可以爬

缺點

  • 外面平面牆不避雨。
  • 這邊有平面牆,大角度牆,但是小一點的角度(10至20度)就不存在。

注意:最近戶外右邊牆上裝上了凸出的地形點所以要小心,不要在有地形點的線爬先鋒。