La Sportiva “Climb in Gym” Tour in Taiwan (Jul.~Aug.2018)

“Climb in Gym” Test & Feel Tour by La Sportiva will take place in July and August in several climbing gyms across Taiwan.  Paying an entrance fee, you can try various La Sportiva climbing shoes and enjoy interesting routes.  Check the event website (in Chinese) and find a gym nearest for you!

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Picture taken from the official event website.

Where to resole climbing shoes in Taiwan?

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There are not many options of resoling climbing shoes in Taiwan.  The most popular shops used to be the “Doctor of Hiking Shoes (登山鞋醫生)” in Taipei and a shoemaker in Tainan City.  However, neither of them is specialized in climbing shoes.  After resoling, the rubber and shape of shoes are quite different from the original, and repaired shoes typically cannot last for a long time before splitting or peeling again.

Huo-Yun (火雲鞋神) is the first professional climbing shoe resoler in Taiwan.  Although not as cheap as the options above, it uses Vibram XSGrip rubber, and considers the original shape and special features of each pair of shoes.  It is the current best option to prolong the life of your beloved, high-class climbing shoes.

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Extending a Quickdraw

 

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pic source

Oftentimes when climbing, we encounter situations where we need a longer draw. A route which wanders, a roof, or if you’re trad climbing, a piece that may walk out of place are all good reasons to want some length on that draw.

It’s  a good idea for any sport climber to own 2 to 3 long draws. These can either be store-bought, or self made – simply buy a long dogbone from the climbing store, remove the carabiners from one of your regular quickdraws, and install them on the dogbone, making sure to put the top carabiner in the loose side and the bottom carabiner in the tight side of the bone.

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Black Diamond Aluminum Harness Buckles Exhibiting Severe Corrosion at Seaside Crags

Severe Corrosion, most likely SCC, on a 2013 model Black Diamond Momentum Harness - photo: Ugo Ortolano

Severe waist-buckle corrosion on a 2013 model Black Diamond Momentum Harness – photo: Ugo Ortolano

Multiple climbers who have frequented Taiwan’s seaside crag Long Dong have found the waist buckles on their Black Diamond Climbing Harnesses severely corroded afterwards.A 2013 model Momentum, a 2014 model Momentum and a 2013 model Chaos have been reported with this type of severe corrosion on the waist-buckle, a load-bearing and safety-critical component of the climbing harness.

The issue is not immediately apparent, but happens over a period of months after exposure to the saltwater spray present at Long Dong.

In addition to climbers in Taiwan, HK Climber Tony reports of the same issue occuring on his 2014 BD Momentum Harness after climbing at seaside crags in Hong Kong, meaning this problem could affect BD Harnesses used at any seaside area- not just in Taiwan.

With some harnesses exhibiting the issue and others of the same make and model with no issue(despite going through similar conditions), the issue is suspected to be the influence of salt water exposure combined with quality control issues on certain harnesses.

The issue is not isolated to a single model or year as reports of waist buckle corrosion have been confirmed on a 2013 and 2014 Black Diamond Momentum Harness, as well as a Black Diamond Chaos Harness. All BD harnesses which use anodized aluminum buckles seem to be possibly affected.

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Waist buckle corrosion on a 2014 Black Diamond Momentum Harness – Photo: John Martin

We suggest the following to climbers who frequent seaside crags like Taiwan’s Long Dong, Hong Kong’s Tung Lung Island, or Greece’s Kalymnos:

  • Inspect your harness regularly if climbing by the sea and wash or wipe down the metal hardware at least once a month
  • If you find excessive corrosion on your BD Harness waist buckle, contact BD warranty service at https://warranty.bdel.com/
  • Help prevent corrosion by storing harnesses in their original mesh bag for airflow instead of confined spaces like a closet or backpack
  • Until this issue is addressed, consider buying other harnesses  brands if climbing by the sea

Taipei Climbing Shoe Resoles

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5.10 Blackwings resoled by the Shoe Doctor(photo – Jason Willis)

Need a climbing shoe resole in Taiwan? Look no further than Taipei. Our friend Spiral reports that there is indeed a cobbler in our fair city who will resole or otherwise fix your climbing shoes at a reasonable price.

The “Shoe Doctor” is Mister 林三二(Lin San Er) and is located at 台北市赤峰結53巷22號 near MRT Shuanglian station.