Long Dong New Routes series – White Handsome Devil

White Handsome Devil白色帥氣惡魔

Grand Auditorium, trad, 5.10b/c

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Long Dong New Routes series – Jafar’s zaba-caba-dabra

Jafar’s zaba-caba-dabra 賈方的詭計

Grand Auditorium, trad, 5.10c

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Standard camalot rack to BD #4.  Double #0.5 and #0.75 if needed.

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Update of bolt status in Long Dong(Oct. 2017~May 2018)

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Most dangerous old bolts on Euro Wall have been removed.

#78 Lava Tube & #79 Bird’s Nest: There are cracks in the glue of the first bolts. Please do not climb.

#123 Snake Alley: Top anchor bolts for both pitches renewed with Titanium.

#114-123 (most of Euro Wall): All old bolts on these routes are removed.  Please climb with traditional gears.

#237 Desert: Top anchor rebolted with Titanium.

#252 Genesis: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#273 Heart-shaped Rice Cake & #274 Black Heart Pig’s Blood Cake: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#275 Good Morning Long Dong & #276 Bolt Bolt Shortage: Top anchors rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#369 Big Drum: Two new lead bolts added.

#431 Golden Gate Roof: one new lead bolt added before the crux.

#480 Skin Friction: fully rebolted with Titanium.

Thanks to all those who have helped the rebolt and debolt work!

 

<note> While many routes are now rebolted and climbable, do not overlook the risk of rockfall for routes located in certain areas (such as the First Cave). 

 

Also, please take in mind:

- Some routes are rebolted with the old ones remaining on the wall.  Do not use the bad ones.

- For the latest bolt status update, please check Climbio or Guidebook+.

 

Photo by Pei-Hsuan Ku

Where to climb in Long Dong in a HOT summer day?

19942610_10155513173034127_7250881545312660796_o Where to climb in Long Dong in a HOT summer day? The summer heat in Taiwan is unbearable.  Long Dong is located by the seaside, and this makes it a cooler and less rainy place in summer compared to the Taipei City.   Still, it is a very bad idea to climb under the scorching sun: it can be very easy to get serious heat stroke, heat exhaustion, or dehydration. There are some ways to cope with the problem of heat:

-          set up a tarp

-          adjust your climbing schedule (e.g. to arrive at Long Dong around noon or in the afternoon and climb until 18:30 – the daytime in summer is quite long after all!)

-          bring a lot of water or icy drinks <important!!>

-          choose climbing areas wisely

Here are some useful tips on the most suitable climbing areas in summer. Read the rest of this entry »

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Wanyi Shih sent Golden Legend 5.13c/d

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After numerous tries, Wanyi Shih has finally sent the classic testpiece of Long Dong – Golden Legend 5.13c/d.  This is the first ascent of the route by a Taiwanese female.  Congrats!

 

Photo/Tigar Lin