Update of bolt status in Long Dong(Oct. 2017~May 2018)

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Most dangerous old bolts on Euro Wall have been removed.

#78 Lava Tube & #79 Bird’s Nest: There are cracks in the glue of the first bolts. Please do not climb.

#123 Snake Alley: Top anchor bolts for both pitches renewed with Titanium.

#114-123 (most of Euro Wall): All old bolts on these routes are removed.  Please climb with traditional gears.

#237 Desert: Top anchor rebolted with Titanium.

#252 Genesis: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#273 Heart-shaped Rice Cake & #274 Black Heart Pig’s Blood Cake: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#275 Good Morning Long Dong & #276 Bolt Bolt Shortage: Top anchors rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#369 Big Drum: Two new lead bolts added.

#431 Golden Gate Roof: one new lead bolt added before the crux.

#480 Skin Friction: fully rebolted with Titanium.

Thanks to all those who have helped the rebolt and debolt work!

 

<note> While many routes are now rebolted and climbable, do not overlook the risk of rockfall for routes located in certain areas (such as the First Cave). 

 

Also, please take in mind:

- Some routes are rebolted with the old ones remaining on the wall.  Do not use the bad ones.

- For the latest bolt status update, please check Climbio or Guidebook+.

 

Photo by Pei-Hsuan Ku

Where to climb in Long Dong in a HOT summer day?

19942610_10155513173034127_7250881545312660796_o Where to climb in Long Dong in a HOT summer day? The summer heat in Taiwan is unbearable.  Long Dong is located by the seaside, and this makes it a cooler and less rainy place in summer compared to the Taipei City.   Still, it is a very bad idea to climb under the scorching sun: it can be very easy to get serious heat stroke, heat exhaustion, or dehydration. There are some ways to cope with the problem of heat:

-          set up a tarp

-          adjust your climbing schedule (e.g. to arrive at Long Dong around noon or in the afternoon and climb until 18:30 – the daytime in summer is quite long after all!)

-          bring a lot of water or icy drinks <important!!>

-          choose climbing areas wisely

Here are some useful tips on the most suitable climbing areas in summer. Read the rest of this entry »

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Wanyi Shih sent Golden Legend 5.13c/d

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After numerous tries, Wanyi Shih has finally sent the classic testpiece of Long Dong – Golden Legend 5.13c/d.  This is the first ascent of the route by a Taiwanese female.  Congrats!

 

Photo/Tigar Lin

Seasonal Closure of Grand Auditorium in Long Dong since March 2018

 

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The breeding season of protected peregrine falcons has started. Please DO NOT CLIMBING in Grand Auditorium in Long Dong from March 2018 to the end of June, or when the fledgling leave the nest.

More info here.

Photo/Y.H.Hsu

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Paul Foster’s Long Dong guidebook

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Paul Foster(傅抱仁), a sinologist and rock climber, is also a participant in the development of Long Dong 30 years ago.  He did some impressive FAs, such as “One Way Ticket,” and, moreover, is the first person who systematically compiled the topos and route information of Long Dong.  You may call it the first LD guidebook.  Before that, there were only scattered topo pages or booklets.  The names of climbing areas that are so familiar to us today, such as Back Door or Grand Auditorium, are also formally recorded for the first time in this book.

This guidebook is now scanned  into an PDF file that is open for download for everyone interested in the history of Long Dong.  Many, many thanks to Ta-chi Wang, who shared the original documents, and Maurice Chen, who took the tedious task of electronification!