Long Dong Diary – A Short Film by Aaron Chen

微 ‧ 龍洞一日記錄 from Aaron Chen on Vimeo.

 

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Long Dong Cleanup Autumn 2013

LD Cleanup Autumn 2013

Autumn is here and another round of cleaning is due for Long Dong, our beloved seaside crag. In cooperation with the local(Gongliao) district cleanup crew, the LD Cleanup group is organizing a Fall clean up on October 5th.

Each clean up makes a huge difference but typhoons, waves, tourists, and yes, even negligent climbers mean that regular cleanups are necessary to keep Long Dong tidy.

Join us Saturday October 5th  for a day of cleaning and possibly even some climbing later in the day.  Cleanup will happen 9am-2pm. There is no strict schedule but since the trash crew will arrive at 2pm to pick things up we recommend arriving by 1pm at the very latest to make a difference.

Because the local district cleanup crew is asking for a headcount, we greatly appreciate potential attendees to join the cleanup  event on facebook.

Those wishing to learn more about the cleanup group’s past endeavours and stay informed of future projects can join the LD Cleanup Facebook group

Update! From Organizer Ryan Keenan:
Good news!! Pei-Hsuan Chiang has spoken to the Gongliao district office and they will send boat(s) for us. They will also offer us gloves, towels, desserts, bottle water and trash bags. It seems they want to get some publicity this time, so some reporters and the “chief” will be there. They will put on some kind of opening ceremony in the morning and closing ceremony at noon at school gate. They would like us to gather as many people as we can to take group picture at 9:30am and 12:00. (The boats will be available from 9:00 to 12:00. But the trash truck will stay till 2:00pm).

So… it would be great if people could arrive as early as possible, both because we have a limited time to collect trash and because they want to gather people at 9:30 at School Gate. Anyone who’s driving please fill your car with as many cleaning enthusiasts as possible and people on public transport try to get an early start!

 

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Long Dong Rebolt – Anchor Chain Initiative

The Rebolt group has almost finished their planned work of updating the bolts at Long Dong with sea-crag worthy glue-in bolts and is now starting on their next step, which is to install chains at anchors of popular routes with stainless steel maillon rapides(aka quicklinks)

The main setback to this plan has been obtaining marine grade 316 stainless steel quicklinks necessary to stand up long term to the seaside conditions at Long Dong, but a recent donation of 200 quicklinks from Alpine Direct has made this step possible.

Over the next few weeks the rebolt team and friends will install quicklinks on popular routes as per the following photos:

Photo - Alvin Hsu

Photo – Alvin Hsu

 

Chains on unequal bolts

Photo – Alvin Hsu

 

If you see these maillon rapides on anchor bolts please realize they are not bailout gear, but intentionally placed anchor links, and do NOT remove them.

Finally, while cleaning on rappel is still encouraged for climbers who are confident and safe at it, cleaning on lowering should be done on the quicklinks, NOT the glue in anchor bolts, so as to reduce wear on permanent gear.

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2013 National Sport Climbing Championships Schedule

The 2013 North Face National Sport Climbing Championships are at Neihu Sports Center Climbing Wall this weekend!

TNFLogo
Here’s the schedule:

5/18 Saturday – Qualifications and Semifinals

08:30- 09:00 Contestant Check in
09:00- 09:10 Amateur’s division Observation
09:30-12:30 Men’s Amateur Qualifications
09:30-11:00 Women’s Amateur Qualifications
11:10- 11:20 Women’s Open Observation
11:20-12:00 Women’s Open Qualifications
12:30- 14:30 Change of routes
14:30- 14:50 Opening Ceremony
15:00- 15:10 Observation
15:10- 16:30 Men’s Open Qualifications
15:10-17:00 Men’s Amateur Semifinals
17:10 Speed Climbing roll call
17:20- 17:50 Speed Climbing Open Qualification
17:50- 19:00 Speed Climbing Amateur Qualifications

5/19 Sunday – Finals
08:30- 09:00 Contestant Check in
09:20- 09:30 Observation
09:30- 10:30 Amateur Division Finals
13:00- 13:10 Contestant introductions
13:10- 13:20 Observation
13:20- 14:20 Open Division Finals
14:30 Speed Climbing Roll Call
14:40- 15:30 Speed Climbing Amateur Finals
15:30- 16:00 Speed Climbing Open Finals
16:30- 17:00 Award ceremony

 

source: Climbing.org

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More Loose Rock – #383 Music Hall Wedding Route

Matt Girvan reports – A large loose chunk of rock has been identified on the Wedding route at Music Hall.

Photo - Karissa Carr

Photo – Karissa Carr

A lot of loose rock  seems to have occurred recently in areas known usually for better stone. We wonder if all the spring rain combined with the recent earthquake has loosened things up.  Belayers and Climbers should try to be aware of their surroundings regardless of where they climb at LD.

Update: According Roger Kao there is also a “person-sized” loose chunk of rock on route 171 Aus der Traum in Golden Valley. As per above, the earthquake seems to have shaken things up, please take caution regardless of the area you’re climbing in LD.

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