Long Dong Rebolt Team Announces Large Scale Titanium Rebolting Plan

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Following recent bolt failures at Long Dong including the most recent incident where the anchors of popular Music Hall route Big Drum failed on lower, a plan has been announced on the official Long Dong Rebolt Page for large-scale rebolting of Long Dong with titanium alloy bolts.

In a lengthy post pinned on the Long Dong Rebolt group (“龍洞 re-bolt 計劃”), rebolt team spokesman Jinlung You writes that the team plans to procure a large number of titanium bolts in two phases to replace aging bolts at Long Dong over 4 years old, with priority on bolts determined to be “questionable” including “Fixe 304″, Petzl Collinox, Petzl P38, and AustriAlpin bolts. In the second phase, all other bolts of that age will be considered for rebolting.

Jinlung explains that the team will perform extensive , non-destructive pull-testing of all bolts at Long Dong. By performing pull testing to a pre-determined, non-destructive load, the team hopes to determine bolts which are necessary to be replaced and which can stay, reducing the # of bolts necessary to be placed and minimizing the damage to the rock.

The number of bolts is large with 592 bolts projected for the first phase of high priority rebolts and 867 bolts estimated for the second phase. With costs per bolt estimated at $546 NTD, the first phase is seeking $430,000 in funding and the second phase is projected to require $530,000. As the rebolt team’s current funds are dwindling, the group is seeking outside help and all climbers and interested parties are encouraged to donate.

TaiwanRocks has translated the full rebolt plan announcement below including donation details. If you’re interested in donating or just interested in the future of Long Dong climbing, we encourage you to read the letter in full:

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Big Drum Anchors Fail on Lower

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Big Drum Anchors – photo by Ofelia Huang

Ofelia Huang reports that on Friday July 24th, the anchors of popular sport climb #369 Big Drum in Music Hall failed while a climber was lowering off them to the ground. The anchors failed when the climber was around 4m from the ground. The climber sustained minor injuries but is reported to be fine.

The type of bolts used are Petzl Collinox bolts made of 316L stainless steel, making this the first failure of a 316 “Marine grade” stainless steel bolt at Long Dong.

Update (August 26, 2015): It has been confirmed by Petzl America that the bolts in the photo and in this incident were actually 304 grade stainless steel.

The surrounding climbs #367 Fucking Fall and #370 Finger Crack , Musical Arete and 383 Wedding Route use the same Petzl Collinox bolts and we recommend climbers to avoid all of these popular climbs at this point until the routes are rebolted.

The Bivy Climber’s Hostel Opens Near Long Dong

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The Bivy is open! Taiwan’s first climbing hostel, the Bivy is located in picturesque Bitou Cape, right before the tunnel to Long Dong Village. Opened by professional guiding outfit QxAdventures, the hostel has a 6 bed dorm room priced at 500 a night per person, and a private 2 person bedroom upstairs priced at 1200 per night for the room.

The twin bed room

The twin bed room

While the location is not as ideal as the guesthouse in Long Dong village, the drink selection is significantly better with a simple bar area stocked with local Taiwan beer as well as Kirin, filtered water, and all important coffee – the real stuff, not Mr. Brown. Yes, there’s Wifi.

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The Bivy’s first guest – Chris from Germany

To book a room at the Bivy, contact them through their Facebook page or their # in Taiwan – 09 1639 7826.  Shuttle service to and from the crag seems to be available if you ask nicely…

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The dorm room on a busy weekend

2015 Long Dong Spring Cleanup(5/16)

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Photo of the Month – March 2015

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Photo by QxAdventures

Shot by Cheang Qing Xin of QxAdventures.

Kelly Khiew gets some air on her send of Captain Ahab, a super exposed trad 5.11a 25 meters up on the Whales Head in Music Hall.

QxAdventures are currently building a new climbing hostel for climbers going to Long Dong. Located in Bitou Cape, a quaint fishing village right before the final tunnel to Long Dong, The Bivy climber’s hostel will feature Wifi, coffee, and other amenities missing from the existing hostel in Long Dong village, which has received lackluster reviews.