Bolt Broken on Route #126 Great Pumpkin in Golden Valley(2/17/2015)

Broken Fixe "304" bolt- photo James Song

Broken Fixe “304″ bolt- photo James Song

James Song reports of a bolt broken on Route #126 in the Golden Valley, Long Dong. While working a crux midway up the route, James took a lead fall on the 5th bolt, which snapped. The broken bolt, pictured above, is a Fixe brand 304 stainless steel bolt.

While suitable for inland locations, 304 type stainless steel is unsuitable for use at seaside crags like Long Dong, where sea spray, warm temperatures, and the stress of climbing forces can combine to result in catastrophic bolt failure due to Stress Corrosion Cracking(SCC). This type of corrosion is particularly insidious as the bolt may appear perfectly fine on the outside while actually having severe stress fractures on the inside of the bolt.

While almost all popular sport routes in recent years have been rebolted with either higher quality 316 “marine grade” stainless steel or more recently, corrosion-resistant titanium alloy, a number of routes in Long Dong still have Fixe bolts with 304 grade stainless steel.

We recommend climbers at Long Dong keep up to date on route bolting status and general route safety info by checking Guidebook+.

Polish Climber Ola Przybysz Sends Golden Legend 5.13d

Ola cross

Visiting Polish climber Aleksandra “Ola” Przybysz has sent the overhanging power endurance fest Golden Legend 5.13d(8b).  Taking a total of 5 tries, Ola sent the line while putting up the quickdraws.

First ascent by South African climber Paul Brouard, Golden Legend follows halfway up the bronze yellow arete of “The Real Legend” 5.13a , then diverges to the overhanging face for a sustained dynamic finish.

Ola muscles

This route has seen just 7 ascents over 12 years, including 5 top Taiwanese climbers as well as a recent ascent in January 2015 by visiting German climber Hans Radetzki. Aleksandra’s ascent marks the first female ascent(FFA) of this classic Long Dong testpiece.

photos courtesy Aleksandra Przybysz 

Photo of the Month – February 2015

IMG_0039

Visting climber Javier Perez onsights Mr. Anonymous 5.11d in Golden Valley.

Shot by: Jean Paul De Villiers

New 5.12 trad line “Comin’ in Hot” put up in Grand Auditorium

Garrreth Bird on "Comin' in Hot" - photo: Ryan Keenan

Garrreth Bird on the first ascent of “Comin’ in Hot”
photo – Ryan Keenan

Garrreth Bird has sent “Comin’ in Hot’, a first ascent in the Grand Auditorium described by partner Ryan Keenan as a steep and varied line with good protection. Clocking in at stiff 5.12a, this is being considered an FA as Ryan and Garrreth “pulled small houses off this thing.”

Ryan spills the dirty deets:

“We explored this line about a week or two ago and it went down as a hard 5.11 that required some heavy cleaning of loose blocks, which seemed to suggest it might be a new line. Returning yesterday for the redpoint, Garrreth sent after a few tries but reported one of the key crux handholds might be loose. I seconded up to the crux and proceeded to remove said key hold and find that some blocks containing key footholds were also loose, and subsequently removed them. At some point Garrreth yelled up “quit tearing down our f#@&ing route!!”.

After this thorough cleaning of loose holds I could no longer climb the route, even on a snug toprope! I lowered off and gave Garrreth another try. He proceeded to work out an entirely new crux sequence, lower off, pull the rope, and send the route! I went back up on second and thrashed a good long while but still never got the sequence. Anyway, a new project for me, and definitely a fine new route in the GA!

We’re calling the route “Comin in Hot”. It’s a steep and varied line with good protection. The route finishes at a nice new two bolt anchor (not installed by us).We’re calling the route “Comin in Hot”. It’s a steep and varied line with good protection. The route finishes at a nice new two bolt anchor (not installed by us). Garrreth suggests a grade of 5.12a, though I think it might be a skooch harder.  ”

Nice job, guys!

cominintopo

Comin in Hot (5.12a/b) – photo Ryan Keenan

 

comininryan

Ryan Keenan seconds Comin in Hot – photo Garreth Bird

Guidebook+ Update – January 2015

GB+

Guidebook+ is a community-sourced digital update to “The Guidebook” – Rock Climbing TaiwanSince Rock Climbing Taiwan was published in 2012, a lot of changes have occurred at Long Dong including new routes being put up, old routes being chopped, reports of loose rock on certain routes, grade corrections and more.

In this latest update to GB+:

Fixe 304 bolts are found to be unreliable

Fixe 304 bolt

“Fixe 304″ bolts can be identified by the gecko on one side

“Fixe 304″ type bolts, found on many sport routes outside First Cave, as well as a few routes in Golden Valley and School Gate, have been found to be questionable and routes using them have been marked.

Loose Anchor Bolt in Cathouse

Kevin Juan reports of a loose left anchor bolt in the Cathouse area

Kevin Juan reports of a loose left anchor bolt in the Cathouse area

The left anchor bolt on the shared anchor of the Cathouse trad routes 101-104 has been found to rotate slightly in the hole. This bolt allegedly “will not come out” despite the looseness  but we prefer our anchor bolts non-moving so we’ve marked this route and other routes using this type of anchor setup.

B1 Chopped

The expansion bolts on the  sport routes at Backdoor B1 have all been chopped, making this a trad-only area now.

Skin Friction Crux Bolt Chopped

skin friction

During the debolt process the crux bolt of Skin Friction(#480, Clock Tower) broke by hammer strike and was subsequently removed. Without a crux bolt this climb is not safe to climb without supplemental trad gear.

 

Besides these major changes, many other changes have been made. For all the details, check out Guidebook+ directly for up to the minute information or download the latest copy of the PDF:

pdf