Taiwan Switches to Titanium


Based on the latest updates on the Long Dong Rebolt Effort page, future reboltings at Long Dong, Taiwan’s premier sandstone seaside crag, will be done with titanium bolts.

The exact post by the “Doc” mentions that the remaining cache of 316 stainless steel bolts are being delegated to crags in the South of Taiwan, including Shoushan crag and Guanziling.

The specific bolts used will be the Eterna Titanium bolts manufactured by Titan Climbing. Previous titanium bolt designs were rejected at Long Dong because of reasons such as difficulty of installation from having drill two holes,  weakness at welding points, and lack of UIAA certification. The Eterna Titanium bolts have no weld points, use a single hole design, have a 45kN rating, and are individually proof tested to 12kN.

The reason titanium bolts are being chosen is that  304 stainless steel bolts have been shown to suffer from serious Stress Chlorine Cracking(SCC) corrosion when used at Long Dong. While the newer “Made in Taiwan” 316(“marine grade”) stainless glue in design has held up well for now, it’s understood they too will succumb to SCC over time.  Titanium is the long term solution chosen in Thailand and now planned to be used exclusively for the future of bolting at Long Dong.


Source: 龍洞re-bolt計劃


LD Cleanup Fall 2014

LD Fall Cleanup 2014 (11/22)

LD Cleanup Fall 2014

Where Stone Meets Ocean

Where Stone Meets Ocean from Kenneth Koh on Vimeo.

Weather at Long Dong

Local climbers in Taiwan are blessed by great seaside climbing — when it doesn’t rain! This important caveat in this often water-logged island means prospective Long Dong climbers would do well to check the weather report before heading out.

The good news is that weather in Long Dong and the north-east coast in general is usually significantly better than locations further inland and year round climbing can be had for the meteorologically-savvy.

Taipei = LD?

The first rule of weather at LD is that it’s different from Taipei weather. Surrounded by mountains, precipitation often gathers over Taipei without much room to maneuver, whereas at Long Dong, the same clouds which would form rain in the city often move over the climbing areas without incident. Generally speaking, the weather at LD is going to be better than in the city, but especially in the winter, it’s not a sure thing, so its good practice to check the weather report before heading out for the day.

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