New 5.12 trad line “Comin’ in Hot” put up in Grand Auditorium

Garrreth Bird on "Comin' in Hot" - photo: Ryan Keenan

Garrreth Bird on the first ascent of “Comin’ in Hot”
photo – Ryan Keenan

Garrreth Bird has sent “Comin’ in Hot’, a first ascent in the Grand Auditorium described by partner Ryan Keenan as a steep and varied line with good protection. Clocking in at stiff 5.12a, this is being considered an FA as Ryan and Garrreth “pulled small houses off this thing.”

Ryan spills the dirty deets:

“We explored this line about a week or two ago and it went down as a hard 5.11 that required some heavy cleaning of loose blocks, which seemed to suggest it might be a new line. Returning yesterday for the redpoint, Garrreth sent after a few tries but reported one of the key crux handholds might be loose. I seconded up to the crux and proceeded to remove said key hold and find that some blocks containing key footholds were also loose, and subsequently removed them. At some point Garrreth yelled up “quit tearing down our f#@&ing route!!”.

After this thorough cleaning of loose holds I could no longer climb the route, even on a snug toprope! I lowered off and gave Garrreth another try. He proceeded to work out an entirely new crux sequence, lower off, pull the rope, and send the route! I went back up on second and thrashed a good long while but still never got the sequence. Anyway, a new project for me, and definitely a fine new route in the GA!

We’re calling the route “Comin in Hot”. It’s a steep and varied line with good protection. The route finishes at a nice new two bolt anchor (not installed by us).We’re calling the route “Comin in Hot”. It’s a steep and varied line with good protection. The route finishes at a nice new two bolt anchor (not installed by us). Garrreth suggests a grade of 5.12a, though I think it might be a skooch harder.  ”

Nice job, guys!

cominintopo

Comin in Hot (5.12a/b) – photo Ryan Keenan

 

comininryan

Ryan Keenan seconds Comin in Hot – photo Garreth Bird

Guidebook+ Update – January 2015

GB+

Guidebook+ is a community-sourced digital update to “The Guidebook” – Rock Climbing TaiwanSince Rock Climbing Taiwan was published in 2012, a lot of changes have occurred at Long Dong including new routes being put up, old routes being chopped, reports of loose rock on certain routes, grade corrections and more.

In this latest update to GB+:

Fixe 304 bolts are found to be unreliable

Fixe 304 bolt

“Fixe 304″ bolts can be identified by the gecko on one side

“Fixe 304″ type bolts, found on many sport routes outside First Cave, as well as a few routes in Golden Valley and School Gate, have been found to be questionable and routes using them have been marked.

Loose Anchor Bolt in Cathouse

Kevin Juan reports of a loose left anchor bolt in the Cathouse area

Kevin Juan reports of a loose left anchor bolt in the Cathouse area

The left anchor bolt on the shared anchor of the Cathouse trad routes 101-104 has been found to rotate slightly in the hole. This bolt allegedly “will not come out” despite the looseness  but we prefer our anchor bolts non-moving so we’ve marked this route and other routes using this type of anchor setup.

B1 Chopped

The expansion bolts on the  sport routes at Backdoor B1 have all been chopped, making this a trad-only area now.

Skin Friction Crux Bolt Chopped

skin friction

During the debolt process the crux bolt of Skin Friction(#480, Clock Tower) broke by hammer strike and was subsequently removed. Without a crux bolt this climb is not safe to climb without supplemental trad gear.

 

Besides these major changes, many other changes have been made. For all the details, check out Guidebook+ directly for up to the minute information or download the latest copy of the PDF:

pdf

Taiwan Switches to Titanium

Titanium

Based on the latest updates on the Long Dong Rebolt Effort page, future reboltings at Long Dong, Taiwan’s premier sandstone seaside crag, will be done with titanium bolts.

The exact post by the “Doc” mentions that the remaining cache of 316 stainless steel bolts are being delegated to crags in the South of Taiwan, including Shoushan crag and Guanziling.

The specific bolts used will be the Eterna Titanium bolts manufactured by Titan Climbing. Previous titanium bolt designs were rejected at Long Dong because of reasons such as difficulty of installation from having drill two holes,  weakness at welding points, and lack of UIAA certification. The Eterna Titanium bolts have no weld points, use a single hole design, have a 45kN rating, and are individually proof tested to 12kN.

The reason titanium bolts are being chosen is that  304 stainless steel bolts have been shown to suffer from serious Stress Chlorine Cracking(SCC) corrosion when used at Long Dong. While the newer “Made in Taiwan” 316(“marine grade”) stainless glue in design has held up well for now, it’s understood they too will succumb to SCC over time.  Titanium is the long term solution chosen in Thailand and now planned to be used exclusively for the future of bolting at Long Dong.

 

Source: 龍洞re-bolt計劃

2014年龍洞秋季大掃除(11月22日)

LD Cleanup Fall 2014

LD Fall Cleanup 2014 (11/22)

LD Cleanup Fall 2014