天然岩場常見的環境危機

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龍洞算是相當乾淨的岩場,除了人不多、林投多 (!?)、

臨近都市不太需露營以外,岩友們的自覺也是關鍵

人群會給天然岩場帶來什麼環境危機?這篇文章列出美國十個超級熱門、但已面臨巨大壓力的經典岩場,包括紅岩谷(Red Rock Canyon)、紅河谷(Red River Gorge)、印地安溪(Indian Creek)等。這些地點是許多攀岩者心目中的聖地,但人數爆增後,除了爬有名的路線得排隊以外,也造成一堆環境問題:

  • 岩場與週邊的植物被清除或踩死:岩壁基部的人潮,加上隨意停車或開路通往岩場等行為,讓原本的植被遭殃、土地裸露,也加速土石流失,間接破壞了岩壁。這不僅影響小植物,大樹也會因根部受傷而死亡
  • 垃圾與排泄物:岩場露營很愜意,但人山人海時就很可怕了,特別是在環境脆弱、排泄物跟廚餘無法快速分解的地方
  • 敏感生物受影響:例如沙漠中的「生物土壤結皮」是藻類與微生物的複合體,是維持沙漠生態平衡的重要一環,形成需數十年,但踩一腳就可摧毀。新來的攀岩者若無人告知這類生態資訊,很容易造成大破壞。Guidebook中很需要列出這類資訊

回顧我們的龍洞、關子嶺、壽山…,只要有人,破壞就難免,但我們也看到許多關心環境的岩友發起種種維護之舉,無論是從自身做起的小事,例如垃圾不落地,或龍洞清潔日、游隼繁殖期封閉攀岩區等團體行動,都是讓攀岩者與環境、也與這塊地上其他的使用者共存共榮的方式。

 

照片/許永暉

Shoushan Crag Will Be Limited to Skyline from 2019

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From Jan. 01, 2019, rock climbing in Shoushan will be officially limited to the “Skyline” area.  Application and permission will be required by the Nature Park.

Related report

Most of Shoushan Climbing Crags may be shut down soon (summer 2018)

There are two major natural cragging areas in Kaohsiung : “QianGuang Temple” and “Shoushan,” the latter being several crags inside of Shoushan National Nature Park. This year, both areas are faced with serious problems from the government and the public.  This article focuses on the current situation of Shoushan. (For info on QianGuang Temple, please check another article here.)

26236075_1495357463867481_1478728787_o↑AC Wall, one of the climbing areas of Shoushan that are going to be closed after the amendment passes. Read the rest of this entry »

Part of the Climbing Walls in QianGuang Temple Crag Collapsed (summer 2018)

37953402_1534715406633900_3112200918351740928_o↑The mining project went on right beside the QianGuang Temple climbing area. The huge pit is about 20 meters deep, a highly possible cause of the collapse of the climbing walls.

There are two major natural cragging areas in Kaohsiung : “QianGuang Temple” and “Shoushan,” the latter being several crags inside of Shoushan National Nature Park. This year, both areas are faced with serious problems from the government and the public.  This article focuses on the current situation of QianGuang Temple. (It is also called “Shoushan crag” sometimes. Do not mix them up! For info on Shoushan crags in the Nature Park, please check another article.)

QianGuang Temple crag is one of the oldest climbing areas in southern Taiwan.  Bolting started in the 1980s, and top rope climbing can be traced to even earlier.  Sadly, this historic crag is now greatly damaged: part of the walls collapsed in early July and about half of the routes there disappeared forever.  The cause of the incident is still under investigation, but it is probably associated with the “mining for lost treasure project” which started in February this year.  It is already not the first mining project near the crag.  According to unverified rumors, Japanese army buried a lot of treasure across Taiwan during their colonization period.  Shoushan is believed to be one of the hot spots and has attracted many treasure hunters. The excavation project was suspended after the walls collapsed.  For the incidence at a glance, please check this page (in Chinese). Read the rest of this entry »

龍洞攀岩場

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地點:東北角

攀登形態:運攀,傳攀,少許抱石與deep water soloing

如何去:

開車 — 入口有兩個:龍洞校門口停車場(和美國小)後門/黃金谷停車場(西靈巖寺)。開啟上述兩個位置的地圖連結,以規畫行車路線。另外在「大禮堂頂」也有一個停車場,可接龍洞灣岬步道,通往校門口或後門。從大禮堂頂另有一條小徑直接通往大禮堂底,但較陡峭危險,建議由熟悉路況的人帶路

從台北搭公車國光號1811或1812班次(台北火車站~南方澳/羅東)。有多處站牌可以上車。欲到校門口,請搭到「龍洞港」站,下車後過馬路,即見一個樓梯往下通至校門口停車場。欲到後門/黃金谷,請搭到「龍洞南口」站,然後往回走一小段,取馬路對面往西靈巖寺的柏油路進去,也可以禮貌地問司機能否讓你在過龍洞隧道後就下車,往西靈巖寺的路就在隧道口旁。

回程公車(國光1811)大約會在5:20,6:20,11:20,17:20前後經過龍洞,視塞車狀況而異,可詢問和美國小門口的雜貨店。攔便車到台北或瑞芳火車站也是可行的選項

簡介:龍洞是全台灣最棒的天然岩場,由堅硬的四稜砂岩構成,摩擦力絕佳,攀登型態多樣,運攀、傳攀都很適合,還有碧海藍天為背景,風景之美令人屏息。

到龍洞的交通很方便,離台北僅一小時車程。從停車場走到攀岩區的距離,從10~30分鐘不等,需走過大片海濱亂石,也有些區域需攀過小段較有暴露感的橫渡。

攀登季節:春、秋最佳。冬天為雨季,但仍有乾燥的好天氣,最好先查天氣預報。夏天大多乾燥,但要小心中暑,可考慮帶泳裝,並找陰影處攀爬

Guidebook:推薦2012年出版的「台灣龍洞攀岩」一書,內容豐富詳細,在台北的登山友、新竹風城、以及網路都可買到。較舊的版本,則有「龍洞傳統攀登」(2006),路線較少,但路線描述與故事較多。

然而,由於資訊持續有所變更,只看紙本guidebook有所不構。新路線與bolt安全資訊,可查詢專屬網路文件Guidebook+。另一個網站Climbio也有最新bolt與路線安全資訊。

Bolt狀況:濱海環境對金屬的腐蝕較嚴重,部分路線的bolt不安全。2012年出版的guidebook中對此有詳細說明,不過,在2012之後bolt狀況有很多改變,大量路線已rebolt。因此,建議除了guidebook以外,也查詢線上即時bolt資訊更新 – guidebook+climbio,以策安全

住宿:理論上不能露營,可考慮民宿,例如龍洞街3號「阿嬤的家」就在校門口停車場旁。位於鼻頭、由一對攀岩嚮導夫妻「QX adventures」經營的「小屋岩」,與位於校門口外、也是由岩友經營的岩居Crack House,都常有岩友投宿,是很棒的選擇。另有一家兼營潛水與旅宿的「歐夫寇斯要冒險 ofucos」也在附近。往福隆方向約數站公車的距離處還有一間黑豬宅,也是岩友經營的住宿點