大砲岩攀岩場

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地點:台北市北投區

攀登形態:運動(頂繩為主),少許抱石、傳統攀登

如何去:陽明山泉源路與行義路交叉口(「惇敘工商」公車站),取泉源路下行500公尺後,可看到一涼亭與大磺嘴站牌,再往前約200米,可見靠山側的路旁有一黃色警告牌,牌後方有一山徑,取該山徑上坡即可到岩場。若搭公車,可搭至陽明山惇敘工商站或大磺嘴站。

簡介:大砲岩是台灣攀岩最早開發的岩場之一,有悠久的攀岩文化,而且很適合訓練。岩質為安山岩,大多為face小點路線,極考驗技巧,是練習腳踩的好去處。路線難度定得比龍洞、熱海等地嚴苛很多,一開始可能不易適應。

本岩場各區皆可找路上到岩頂平台架設top rope固定點。有些岩頂設有bolt anchor,有些則需綁樹及灌木。欲前往攀岩者務必具備架設固定點的能力。由於樹木多離崖邊有一段距離,記得攜帶夠長的扁帶、繩圈,並做好岩角防磨繩保護。

注意:陽明山國家公園管理處立牌告示此處禁止進入,違者最高罰款15,000

攀登季節:四季。冬天為台北雨季,不過每年情況不同,通常可攀爬日子仍多

Guidebook:

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另有英文版guidebookClimbio大砲岩頁面(中文)。

其他資訊:岩場週邊公路無商店,宜先帶足一日補給品

Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering Guidebooks

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With many years’ efforts, a few great natural bouldering areas are cleaned and well documented mostly by Roger Wu along with other fellow boulderers.  Detailed guidebooks are accessible here, including:

- Da Bao 大豹溪(New Taipei City)

- Ping Lai 坪瀨溪(Nantou County)

- Xiao Wu Lai 小烏來 (Taoyuan County), also in Climbio

For supplement, there are two other locations published years earlier:

Shui Chang Liu 水長流(Nantou County), also in Climbio. Credit / iClimb

Feng shan 豐山(Chiayi County). Credit / Roger Wu

You can also ask for or share information in the Facebook Page of Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering.

Pick up your shoes, crash pads, brushes, and go discover the charms of natural bouldering of Taiwan!

 

Photo from Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering FB

Rock Climbing in Polish Tatra Mountains

Despite relatively low altitude (the highest peak, Gerlach, has 2655 m a.s.l.) Tatra Mountains (in Polish Tatry) have alpine character and offer good climbing in beautiful setting.

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Long Dong(Dragon’s Cave) 龍洞

LD Backdoor

Region: NorthEast

Type of Climbing: Sport, Trad,  possible Bouldering,  a little bit of DWS

Season:  Spring and Fall are consistently good, but Winter can be great, just check the forecast before heading out. Summer is hot but mostly dry– bring a swimsuit and seek the shade.

Rating: ★★★★★ 

Description: Long Dong(Dragon’s Lair or Dragon’s Cave)  is  Taiwan’s premier outdoor climbing area - superb sandstone sport and trad climbing on the NorthEast coast of Taiwan.

Accessible easily from Taipei, Hsinchu and northern parts of Taiwan, approaches range from quick and easy to 30 minute hikes over rough terrain and sketchy traverses, but you’re rewarded for your hard work with varied climbing on firm sandstone that provides great friction and gear placements.

The sapphire blue waters, the sea breeze and beautiful rock formations make for a breathtaking backdrop that complements the excellent climbing.

Guidebook 

We highly recommend the Rock Climbing Taiwan 台灣龍洞攀岩  guidebook, extensively covering both Sport and Trad climbing at Long Dong, available at Tingsaniou in Taipei, iClimb in Hsinchu, or online worldwide.

However because the guidebook was printed in 2012, we recommend supplementing the guidebook with Guidebook+, our online route status tracker.

Directions

By Car: LongDong Schoolgate EntranceLongDong Backdoor Entrance

Click on the Entrance you want to approach above and use Google Maps for directions

By Bus from Taipei: Right outside of Main Station Exit M1, buy a ticket from to Long Dong Harbour(龍洞港)The  Bus # will be 1811 . Buses leave daily at 8:20, 9:20 and 10:20 in the morning. Don’t be late. The bus ride takes about 1:10-1:30.

For School Gate entrance, get off at “龍洞港“(Long Dong Harbour) bus stop, walk down the bamboo stairs into the village main road, and walk right into the crag.

For Backdoor entrance, get off at the next stop(Officially “龍洞南口”, but if you ask politely, the bus driver may drop you off right after the tunnel.) and walk back towards the temple. Follow the small temple road through to the parking lot, and then descend the stone steps on your right leading down to the gazebo to go to Backdoor .

Buses run back to Taipei at very roughly 12pm, 3pm and 6pm depending on traffic. To catch the Taipei bus from Backdoor wait at the Long Dong Ocean Park stop.

If you miss the Taipei bus, the 791 bus comes every hour and goes to Keelung Train station where it’s a quick 30 minute bus ride to Taipei.

Weather:

  • Taiwan Central Weather Bureau (Scroll down for LongDong) – This is specific to Long Dong, but it has only one forecast for the whole day.
  • Township weather report- This is for the district that Long Dong is in, but is more detailed and shows weather forecasts throughout the day.

Rebolt status: Because of seaside corrosion, some routes are not safe to climb. The Guidebook does a decent job of explaining which routes are safe or not but since there has been significant rebolting since its publication in 2012, we also recommend supplementing it with Guidebook+, our local route tracker.

Accomodations: As camping is technically not allowed, the most convenient options are staying at the guesthouse in the village(#3 Long Dong street) or at The Bivy Climber’s Hostel.

Guide Service:  QxAdventuresDetour Formosa, and MeetMyGuide provides guide service for this area.

More Info 

MountainProject.com - Pretty good resource about Long Dong, with transportation, info about what gear to bring, and basic info about crags.  Lacks depth and coverage of the guidebook but enough for a day trip.

Climbstone.com - Well organized, basic  info on Long Dong, including how to get there, what to bring. The site is run by Matt Robertson,  author of the Rock Climbing Taiwan guidebook.

GuanziLing 關子嶺

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Region:Tainan/Jiayi

Location: Guanziling Entrance

Type of Climbing: Sport

Season: Fall, Winter, Early Spring

Topos and Beta:

Ron’s Taiwan Climbing Page - Has some basic info.

An easily printable English pdf guide to guanziling has been compiled by Dom Benson, based on Wen-Dong’s online guanziling guidebook(which is itself an electronic version of the original Guanziling guidebook by Wang Hung Hsiang)

Climbio’s Guanziling section also has images and video of a few routes. Climbio has some routes which the other guides don’t and vice versa so it’s good to cross check both resources.