Big Cannon Cliff 大炮岩

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Region: Taipei,  Xinbeitou

UPDATE – Big Cannon Cliff is now officially illegal to climb at. Enter at risk of a $15,000 fine.

Location: Big Cannon Cliff, YangMingShan

Type of Climbing:  Top rope, a little bit of bouldering and trad

Rating: ★★★½☆ 

Directions: From Beitou Metro station, take the 小25(S25) or 230 in the Yangmingshan(陽明山) direction. Get off at stop “DaHuangZui(大磺嘴).” Walk down the road and you will see after about 5 minutes a yellow sign on your left – this is the access trail. Follow the trail up to the right. Alternatively, you can go by bus to the stop “Dunxu High School of Industry and Commerce” and walk around 700M downhill to the trailhead.

Notes:  Short technical climbing on Yangmingshan, mostly face climbing. With beautiful scenery and hot springs nearby, BCC is a nice, convenient crag right outside Taipei.  It is also among the earliest climbing areas in Taiwan.  Be warned though – the grading here is very hard and most of the climbs here aren’t easy.  Beginners may have a tough time adjusting compared to Long Dong. Approach is short from the main mountain road.

The rock is Volcanic Andesite.  Holds are much smaller than at Long Dong. Climbs here can get quite technical and range from about 5 to 9m high. Difficulty goes from 5.8 up to hard 5.12d. Expect crimps, pockets,  cracks… and more (slopey) crimps. If you have a pad there are some decent boulder problems to tackle.

Hike to the top of the cliff to find glue-ins for top rope anchors on some climbs(see pictures). On other routes you will have to set up your own anchors using trees, bushes, etc.

Gear needed:  Any Rope 30m or more is fineSlings/webbing, lockers to set up top rope anchors. Something to pad the rope over an edge is a good idea too. Trad climbing is  a possibility on a number of routes but can get bold at times. Tricams have been recommended.

If you want to use natural anchors you will need a LOT of static cord or webbing since most of the solid trees are about 5-20 meters away from the cliff.

Topo:

Ron’s Taiwan Climbing Page - a guidebook with Topos. Ron translated and enhanced an old guide originally created by Milk, a veteran of the Taiwan Climbing scene.

Climbio page for BCC.

Thanks to 郭寶 for guiding us here

Big Cannon Cliff Now Very Illegal to Climb at

bcc signs

photo – Two Teeth

Always a bit legally sketchy, Taiwanese climber “Two Teeth” reports that climbing at Big Cannon Cliff(Da Pau Yen) has now become very very illegal, based on the number of new signs and warning tape that has been erected at the entrance to the trail. The new signs promise a hefty fine of $15,000TWD if caught in the area.

Rather than a specific warning towards climbers, the current signs restrict access in general to the path.  While we are not sure if enforcement will be increased compared to the past, it does seem like park officials are taking this more seriously than before. We advise climbers looking for climbing in the Beitou area to consider Rehai instead, which remains unrestricted as it doesn’t fall under Yangmingshan park jursidiction.

Feng Shan Bouldering Area 豐山抱石

 

Region: Chiayi/Nantou area (South Central Taiwan)

Location: Shigupan Tourist Bridge, Alishan Township

Description: Feng Shan is a riverbed Bouldering crag in Chiayi county. The area is undergoing active development, and a simple guidebook has been put together by Roger Wu.

Because of the active development status of this crag, we recommend climbers going here to not only  bring a copy of the guidebook, but also keep track of their ascents and boulders they climb.

How to get there: 

TopoTopo Pictures by Roger Wu and fellow climbers

More info: Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering Facebook Page

WeatherWeather Report(Chinese)

photos by Kicker Chen

Shoushan 壽山

Region: Kaohsiung

Location: Take the stairs into the forest around “69 QianGuang road”

Description:  Sharp Limestone sport crag in Kaohsiung City.

More Beta: available @ Mountain Project

Photos courtesy Jim Althans