書摘:攀岩技術教本 – 抓撐轉跳我就是蜘蛛人

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記得自己開始攀岩時,無人指導,一切靠直覺,爬了三年仍被朋友說看起來像新手。之後遇到幾位好繩伴,耐心解釋之後,我才終於知道什麼是outside edge、flag、layback等超級基礎的動作,加上不斷的練習,感覺突飛猛進…

攀岩,就像所有運動一樣,必須藉著不斷的練習,讓身體記住、學會種種技巧。但在過程中若能有人指點一下,了解一下動作的原理,會比自己摸索有效率的多!這本攀岩技術圖解,雖無法取代上牆練習、或一名好教練的指導,但它是本詳實的工具書,若你對任何攀岩技巧有所疑惑,都可以在裡面找到答案。 Read the rest of this entry »

好書推薦:獨行大岩壁Alone on the Wall

Chin_x_low照片來源:Alex Honnold官網。下圖同

只要是岩友,都很難沒聽過Alex Honnold。他的大名像是來自外太空,不是因為爬多「難」,而是因為solo了許多超現實的高難度長路線,大家都說他根本不是人。他不怕嗎?他怎能接受這樣的風險?攀岩明明有更安全的方法,幹嘛這樣做?

而這本書所呈現的Honnold,就跟所有的攀岩者一樣,需要面對恐懼,衡量風險。這兩點是了解他的關鍵。

「我每根神經感受恐懼的能力,都跟身邊的人一模一樣。危險讓我害怕。但… 我擁有在不容出錯的處境下,仍能振作的天賦。我就是知道,在困境中… 要怎麼深呼吸,使自己冷靜下來,然後繼續前進。」 Read the rest of this entry »

Paul Foster’s Long Dong guidebook

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Paul Foster(傅抱仁), a sinologist and rock climber, is also a participant in the development of Long Dong 30 years ago.  He did some impressive FAs, such as “One Way Ticket,” and, moreover, is the first person who systematically compiled the topos and route information of Long Dong.  You may call it the first LD guidebook.  Before that, there were only scattered topo pages or booklets.  The names of climbing areas that are so familiar to us today, such as Back Door or Grand Auditorium, are also formally recorded for the first time in this book.

This guidebook is now scanned  into an PDF file that is open for download for everyone interested in the history of Long Dong.  Many, many thanks to Ta-chi Wang, who shared the original documents, and Maurice Chen, who took the tedious task of electronification!

“Rock Climbing Taiwan” 2016 — an English guidebook of many climbing areas across Taiwan

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“Rock Climbing Taiwan” is written in 2016 by Nathan Ball.  It contains a great deal of information  of many climbing areas that had scattered or only word-of-mouth information before, including details and topos of Rehai 熱海, Shoushan 壽山, Heren 和仁, Kenting 墾丁大尖山, and the big wall of Zhenshan 針山大岩壁.  Many new routes and new areas in Long Dong, Rehai and Shoushan that have been put up in recent years are also included in this ebook.

Thanks to all those help putting up and making records of these areas and routes.  There are indeed still many places in Taiwan with great climbing potential!

*Note: Some climbing areas in this ebook are located in restricted zones and may require a permit.

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Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering Guidebooks

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With many years’ efforts, a few great natural bouldering areas are cleaned and well documented mostly by Roger Wu along with other fellow boulderers.  Detailed guidebooks are accessible here, including:

- Da Bao 大豹溪(New Taipei City)

- Ping Lai 坪瀨溪(Nantou County)

- Xiao Wu Lai 小烏來 (Taoyuan County), also in Climbio

For supplement, there are two other locations published years earlier:

Shui Chang Liu 水長流(Nantou County), also in Climbio. Credit / iClimb

Feng shan 豐山(Chiayi County). Credit / Roger Wu

You can also ask for or share information in the Facebook Page of Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering.

Pick up your shoes, crash pads, brushes, and go discover the charms of natural bouldering of Taiwan!

 

Photo from Taiwan Outdoor Bouldering FB