Polish Climber Ola Przybysz Sends Golden Legend 5.13d

Ola cross

Visiting Polish climber Aleksandra “Ola” Przybysz has sent the overhanging power endurance fest Golden Legend 5.13d(8b).  Taking a total of 5 tries, Ola sent the line while putting up the quickdraws.

First ascent by South African climber Paul Brouard, Golden Legend follows halfway up the bronze yellow arete of “The Real Legend” 5.13a , then diverges to the overhanging face for a sustained dynamic finish.

Ola muscles

This route has seen just 7 ascents over 12 years, including 5 top Taiwanese climbers as well as a recent ascent in January 2015 by visiting German climber Hans Radetzki. Aleksandra’s ascent marks the first female ascent(FFA) of this classic Long Dong testpiece.

photos courtesy Aleksandra Przybysz 

Photo of the Month – February 2015

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Visting climber Javier Perez onsights Mr. Anonymous 5.11d in Golden Valley.

Shot by: Jean Paul De Villiers

New 5.12 trad line “Comin’ in Hot” put up in Grand Auditorium

Garrreth Bird on "Comin' in Hot" - photo: Ryan Keenan

Garrreth Bird on the first ascent of “Comin’ in Hot”
photo – Ryan Keenan

Garrreth Bird has sent “Comin’ in Hot’, a first ascent in the Grand Auditorium described by partner Ryan Keenan as a steep and varied line with good protection. Clocking in at stiff 5.12a, this is being considered an FA as Ryan and Garrreth “pulled small houses off this thing.”

Ryan spills the dirty deets:

“We explored this line about a week or two ago and it went down as a hard 5.11 that required some heavy cleaning of loose blocks, which seemed to suggest it might be a new line. Returning yesterday for the redpoint, Garrreth sent after a few tries but reported one of the key crux handholds might be loose. I seconded up to the crux and proceeded to remove said key hold and find that some blocks containing key footholds were also loose, and subsequently removed them. At some point Garrreth yelled up “quit tearing down our f#@&ing route!!”.

After this thorough cleaning of loose holds I could no longer climb the route, even on a snug toprope! I lowered off and gave Garrreth another try. He proceeded to work out an entirely new crux sequence, lower off, pull the rope, and send the route! I went back up on second and thrashed a good long while but still never got the sequence. Anyway, a new project for me, and definitely a fine new route in the GA!

We’re calling the route “Comin in Hot”. It’s a steep and varied line with good protection. The route finishes at a nice new two bolt anchor (not installed by us).We’re calling the route “Comin in Hot”. It’s a steep and varied line with good protection. The route finishes at a nice new two bolt anchor (not installed by us). Garrreth suggests a grade of 5.12a, though I think it might be a skooch harder.  ”

Nice job, guys!

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Comin in Hot (5.12a/b) – photo Ryan Keenan

 

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Ryan Keenan seconds Comin in Hot – photo Garreth Bird