Update of bolt status in Long Dong(Oct. 2017~May 2018)

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Most dangerous old bolts on Euro Wall have been removed.

#78 Lava Tube & #79 Bird’s Nest: There are cracks in the glue of the first bolts. Please do not climb.

#123 Snake Alley: Top anchor bolts for both pitches renewed with Titanium.

#114-123 (most of Euro Wall): All old bolts on these routes are removed.  Please climb with traditional gears.

#237 Desert: Top anchor rebolted with Titanium.

#252 Genesis: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#273 Heart-shaped Rice Cake & #274 Black Heart Pig’s Blood Cake: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#275 Good Morning Long Dong & #276 Bolt Bolt Shortage: Top anchors rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#369 Big Drum: Two new lead bolts added.

#431 Golden Gate Roof: one new lead bolt added before the crux.

#480 Skin Friction: fully rebolted with Titanium.

Thanks to all those who have helped the rebolt and debolt work!

 

<note> While many routes are now rebolted and climbable, do not overlook the risk of rockfall for routes located in certain areas (such as the First Cave). 

 

Also, please take in mind:

- Some routes are rebolted with the old ones remaining on the wall.  Do not use the bad ones.

- For the latest bolt status update, please check Climbio or Guidebook+.

 

Photo by Pei-Hsuan Ku

Lowering from a Loaded Belay Plate

Using guide mode to lower a seconder after a take or fall is a seemingly simple action… and also a frequent cause to many accidents!    The video below shows how to do this safely, both for short- and long- distance lowering.

Take time to practice before you use these method!

Lowering from a Loaded Belay Plate from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

How to Use Ram’s Horns

There are quite a few ram’s horns top anchors in Long Dong.  But do you really know how to use them? Here is an instruction videoDO NOT MISUSE THEM. DO NOT USE RAM’S HORNS FOR TOP ROPING!

111346457_large_1494348684Left: setup for lowering. Right: setup for top roping. Do not mix them up. photo source

Further reading: How to use top anchor for top roping, cleaning, and lowering

Becoming a Better Climber

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Dominik Lorenz cruises a balancy route in the Long Lane – photo Moriteam

Author: Jean Paul De Villiers

There seems to be a belief that a good climber is a strong climber, and by strong I mean someone who can climb 5.13. Routes this hard require impressive strength and consummate skill, and those who climb such lines inspire awe in the rest of us. However, strength and skill are only two of the many qualities indispensable to the well-rounded rock climber.

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Massive rockfall in Yosemite (Sep. 2017)

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On Sep. 27 and 28, 2017, massive rockfall hit the eastern face of El Cap, Yosemite, on “Waterfall Route.”  The size of the initial rock that broke off the wall was estimated to be as large as 40M*20M*3M, followed by even larger-scaled rockfall events the next day in the same place.  It has caused at least one death and two injuries.

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