How to Use Ram’s Horns

There are quite a few ram’s horns top anchors in Long Dong.  But do you really know how to use them? Here is an instruction videoDO NOT MISUSE THEM. DO NOT USE RAM’S HORNS FOR TOP ROPING!

111346457_large_1494348684Left: setup for lowering. Right: setup for top roping. Do not mix them up. photo source

Further reading: How to use top anchor for top roping, cleaning, and lowering

Becoming a Better Climber


Dominik Lorenz cruises a balancy route in the Long Lane – photo Moriteam

Author: Jean Paul De Villiers

There seems to be a belief that a good climber is a strong climber, and by strong I mean someone who can climb 5.13. Routes this hard require impressive strength and consummate skill, and those who climb such lines inspire awe in the rest of us. However, strength and skill are only two of the many qualities indispensable to the well-rounded rock climber.

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Massive rockfall in Yosemite (Sep. 2017)


On Sep. 27 and 28, 2017, massive rockfall hit the eastern face of El Cap, Yosemite, on “Waterfall Route.”  The size of the initial rock that broke off the wall was estimated to be as large as 40M*20M*3M, followed by even larger-scaled rockfall events the next day in the same place.  It has caused at least one death and two injuries.

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How much slack is too much in lead belay?

How much slack is too slack while sport lead belaying?

Is there any differences in the speed and force in a fall when you give more / less slack?

A pair of climbers tried to find the answer in their video “Overcoming the Fear of Falling: Too much Slack while Lead Belaying?“  They concluded that in dynamic belay (IMPORTANT!!), belaying with some rope slack results in the softest catches if there is no possibility of decking.  On the other hand, in hard catches, slack may make things worse.  *Please note that the conclusion is for sport climbing only.



Guidebook Plus Update September 2016


Guidebook Plus is the best way to stay up to date on route safety status at LD

Guidebook Plus, the online supplement to 2012′s Rock Climbing Taiwan guidebook, has been updated for September 2016. The full online version is here and the PDF version designed for easy printout for reading at the crag is here.

Recent major developments include rockfall in the backdoor area that has rendered a few routes unclimbable, pull testing of bolts, and new trad ascents.

Rockfall at Backdoor

photo - A-lang

photo – A-lang

Reported by local climber A-lang, a major rockfall in the backdoor area in June in the backdoor B2 area has rendered  a few routes near Old Man Wall unclimbable. Routes 67, 70, and 71 were affected.

304 AustriAlpin Bolts


photo – Austrialpin

Last year the discovery that some older Petzl Collinox bolts previously believed to be made of marine grade 316 stainless steel were in fact, made of 304, shook the Taiwan climbing community and meant many more routes were now suspect.

This year it has been discovered that Austrialpin glue-in bolts used in some routes in the Backdoor B2 area as well as Lower Dragon Ridge outside of First Cave are also 304 and not 316 steel as previously believed.

Pull Testing


photo -HydraJaws

Extensive pull testing has been done on nearly all the 304 stainless steel bolts at popular areas in Long Dong except for the Austrialpin bolts previously mentioned, which are unable to be tested due to the shape of the bolt. These tests involve pulling each bolt 5 times to a load of 8KN, each time holding the peak load for 30 seconds.

These tests have uncovered a number of failed bolts, and also “passed” many other ones. The safety of whether routes with completely “passed” bolts is not entirely clear so Guidebook Plus errs on the side of caution and marks these routes still as unsafe(red color.) For more daring climbers comfortable climbing on tested and passed 304 bolts, Climbio provides detailed pull test results.

New Trad Routes

New routes

photo – Nathan Ball

New trad routes have been put up officially and unofficially in several areas of Long Dong including the Grand Auditorium, Music Hall, and Euro Wall.

Because of Long Dong’s history of low-key first ascents, many of these climbs are not claimed as official First Ascents(FA) but as First Recent Ascents(FRA). However, the recent ascent of “Blade”, a new 5.11 in the Music Hall area, is confirmed to be an official first ascent by Cheang Qing Xin.