Lowering from a Loaded Belay Plate

Using guide mode to lower a seconder after a take or fall is a seemingly simple action… and also a frequent cause to many accidents!    The video below shows how to do this safely, both for short- and long- distance lowering.

Take time to practice before you use these method!

Lowering from a Loaded Belay Plate from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

How to Use Ram’s Horns

There are quite a few ram’s horns top anchors in Long Dong.  But do you really know how to use them? Here is an instruction videoDO NOT MISUSE THEM. DO NOT USE RAM’S HORNS FOR TOP ROPING!

111346457_large_1494348684Left: setup for lowering. Right: setup for top roping. Do not mix them up. photo source

Further reading: How to use top anchor for top roping, cleaning, and lowering

Becoming a Better Climber

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Dominik Lorenz cruises a balancy route in the Long Lane – photo Moriteam

Author: Jean Paul De Villiers

There seems to be a belief that a good climber is a strong climber, and by strong I mean someone who can climb 5.13. Routes this hard require impressive strength and consummate skill, and those who climb such lines inspire awe in the rest of us. However, strength and skill are only two of the many qualities indispensable to the well-rounded rock climber.

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Massive rockfall in Yosemite (Sep. 2017)

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On Sep. 27 and 28, 2017, massive rockfall hit the eastern face of El Cap, Yosemite, on “Waterfall Route.”  The size of the initial rock that broke off the wall was estimated to be as large as 40M*20M*3M, followed by even larger-scaled rockfall events the next day in the same place.  It has caused at least one death and two injuries.

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How much slack is too much in lead belay?

How much slack is too slack while sport lead belaying?

Is there any differences in the speed and force in a fall when you give more / less slack?

A pair of climbers tried to find the answer in their video “Overcoming the Fear of Falling: Too much Slack while Lead Belaying?“  They concluded that in dynamic belay (IMPORTANT!!), belaying with some rope slack results in the softest catches if there is no possibility of decking.  On the other hand, in hard catches, slack may make things worse.  *Please note that the conclusion is for sport climbing only.