Accident Report in HK: Quick Draw Unclipped

Earlier this year, an accident occurred in the rock climbing area “Beacon hill” in Hong Kong.  A lead-climber fell from the height of the second bolt before clipping it. The belayer took in slack to catch the fall, but before the climber weighed the rope, the first quick draw unclipped itself from the bolt and slid down along the rope to the belayer.  The result was a 7-meter ground fall.

How Come the Quick Draw Unclipped Itself?

Accident investigators determined the cause to be that, during the fall, the rope caused the bolt-side biner to rotate up and snag on the bolt. See the video below for demonstration:

Read the rest of this entry »

Accident report: confusion of the belayed end and the loose end at top anchor

An accident occurred in Long Dong last week.  A beginner was seconding a 5.7 trad route.  She tied into the middle of the rope, unclipping draws above her and reclipping the dangling tail back into them below as she passed.  At the top anchor, she also unclipped and reclipped the loose end that nobody secured into the top.  No one noticed the mistake.  Afterwards, she asked to be lowered.  Then she fell directly to the ground and had her arm fractured.

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top-roping …56161553_10157167680442628_9070317299554058240_o

…and then off-belay at the top anchor without noticing… Read the rest of this entry »

Update of bolt status in Long Dong(Oct. 2017~May 2018)

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Most dangerous old bolts on Euro Wall have been removed.

#78 Lava Tube & #79 Bird’s Nest: There are cracks in the glue of the first bolts. Please do not climb.

#123 Snake Alley: Top anchor bolts for both pitches renewed with Titanium.

#114-123 (most of Euro Wall): All old bolts on these routes are removed.  Please climb with traditional gears.

#237 Desert: Top anchor rebolted with Titanium.

#252 Genesis: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#273 Heart-shaped Rice Cake & #274 Black Heart Pig’s Blood Cake: Whole route rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#275 Good Morning Long Dong & #276 Bolt Bolt Shortage: Top anchors rebolted with Titanium. <note>

#369 Big Drum: Two new lead bolts added.

#431 Golden Gate Roof: one new lead bolt added before the crux.

#480 Skin Friction: fully rebolted with Titanium.

Thanks to all those who have helped the rebolt and debolt work!

 

<note> While many routes are now rebolted and climbable, do not overlook the risk of rockfall for routes located in certain areas (such as the First Cave). 

 

Also, please take in mind:

- Some routes are rebolted with the old ones remaining on the wall.  Do not use the bad ones.

- For the latest bolt status update, please check Climbio or Guidebook+.

 

Photo by Pei-Hsuan Ku

Lowering from a Loaded Belay Plate

Using guide mode to lower a seconder after a take or fall is a seemingly simple action… and also a frequent cause to many accidents!    The video below shows how to do this safely, both for short- and long- distance lowering.

Take time to practice before you use these method!

Lowering from a Loaded Belay Plate from American Mountain Guides Assoc on Vimeo.

How to Use Ram’s Horns

There are quite a few ram’s horns top anchors in Long Dong.  But do you really know how to use them? Here is an instruction videoDO NOT MISUSE THEM. DO NOT USE RAM’S HORNS FOR TOP ROPING!

111346457_large_1494348684Left: setup for lowering. Right: setup for top roping. Do not mix them up. photo source

Further reading: How to use top anchor for top roping, cleaning, and lowering