Big Cannon Cliff 大炮岩

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Region: Taipei,  Xinbeitou

UPDATE – Big Cannon Cliff is now officially illegal to climb at. Enter at risk of a $15,000 fine.

Location: Big Cannon Cliff, YangMingShan

Type of Climbing:  Top rope, a little bit of bouldering and trad

Rating: ★★★½☆ 

Directions: From Beitou Metro station, take the 小25(S25) or 230 in the Yangmingshan(陽明山) direction. Get off at stop “DaHuangZui(大磺嘴).” Walk down the road and you will see after about 5 minutes a yellow sign on your left – this is the access trail. Follow the trail up to the right. Alternatively, you can go by bus to the stop “Dunxu High School of Industry and Commerce” and walk around 700M downhill to the trailhead.

Notes:  Short technical climbing on Yangmingshan, mostly face climbing. With beautiful scenery and hot springs nearby, BCC is a nice, convenient crag right outside Taipei.  It is also among the earliest climbing areas in Taiwan.  Be warned though – the grading here is very hard and most of the climbs here aren’t easy.  Beginners may have a tough time adjusting compared to Long Dong. Approach is short from the main mountain road.

The rock is Volcanic Andesite.  Holds are much smaller than at Long Dong. Climbs here can get quite technical and range from about 5 to 9m high. Difficulty goes from 5.8 up to hard 5.12d. Expect crimps, pockets,  cracks… and more (slopey) crimps. If you have a pad there are some decent boulder problems to tackle.

Hike to the top of the cliff to find glue-ins for top rope anchors on some climbs(see pictures). On other routes you will have to set up your own anchors using trees, bushes, etc.

Gear needed:  Any Rope 30m or more is fineSlings/webbing, lockers to set up top rope anchors. Something to pad the rope over an edge is a good idea too. Trad climbing is  a possibility on a number of routes but can get bold at times. Tricams have been recommended.

If you want to use natural anchors you will need a LOT of static cord or webbing since most of the solid trees are about 5-20 meters away from the cliff.

Topo:

Ron’s Taiwan Climbing Page - a guidebook with Topos. Ron translated and enhanced an old guide originally created by Milk, a veteran of the Taiwan Climbing scene.

Climbio page for BCC.

Thanks to 郭寶 for guiding us here

STONE 抱石館

介紹: 台灣最大規模的頂級抱石館.

攀岩方式: 抱石(5m
地址: 新北市新莊區三和路58-12號
電話:0963 004 402
STONE 抱石館 臉書  STONE ClimbIO
營業時間: 平日 19:00-23:00,週六 10:00-20:00,週日10:00-19:00
STONE 通常在國定假日也會開門,但營業時間會調整到11:00-19:00。

費用: $200/單次,週末$250/單次 。組岩鞋 $50
半年會員卡 6000,30回數票卷 4800
有學生折,有會員卡,有回數票卷。(請看照片)

Rating: ★★★★½ 


詳情:這是一座抱石者蓋得抱石館。牆壁高,角度有變化,用的點質量好,路線設計的不錯,空間大,還有洗腳區和二樓休息區!
唯一缺點是位於新莊對台北市民眾有點不方便。但是確是個很棒的抱石館。有空很值得去。

紅石攀岩

介紹:  台北市靠近士林夜市的頂級抱石館。
攀岩方式: 抱石(3m)
地址:  承德路四段261號B1
電話: (02) 2883 7591
Stone Bouldering Gym FB
營業時間: 平日16:00-22:30 . 假日 9:00-21:00
費用: $250/一次

Rating: ★★★★☆ 

詳情: 紅石是台灣第一間用單色訂線的抱石館。空間夠大,有空調,有飲水機,路線好玩,有不同角度的牆壁,和這邊有頂級的訓練器材。

STONE Bouldering Gym

Description:  Well-run, spacious bouldering gym with a variety of angles.
Offers: Bouldering(5m)

Location: 新北市新莊區三和路58-12號
Hours: Weekdays 7-11pm . Saturday 10am-8pm, Sunday 10am-7pm.
STONE is usually open on holidays, but hours are adjusted to Sunday hours.
Phone: (09)6300 4402
Stone Bouldering Gym FB  STONE ClimbIO
Pricing: $200 per visit, $250 on weekends. Shoe rental $50
For detailed pricing check the photo gallery

Rating: ★★★★½ 

Notes: Well designed, with 5 meter high walls at all angles, good routesetting, good holds, and even a foot bath! This is a very well run bouldering gym, a great place to climb on fun problems and get strong!

A far out location makes this gym less ideal for dates and casual climbers but if you enjoy bouldering and have the time, STONE is definitely worth making the trek for.

New Bouldering Gym Opening June 19th Near Shilin Night Market

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Taipei City’s third bouldering gym, Red Rock, opens this Friday June 19th near Shilin Night Market.

Housed in a spacious 300 square meter underground facility, the new gym is located 11 minutes walking distance from Jiantan MRT station. With tons of climbing space, monochrome routesetting, and–no joke– air conditioning, Red Rock sets a new standard for bouldering gyms in Taiwan.

We took a sneak peek at the gym and we liked what we saw.

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Red Rock is the first gym in Taiwan with Monochrome setting. No more spending minutes looking for a route, only to forget the holds when you’re on the wall.

Monochrome setting also means the holds are chosen specifically for the route. Taiwan’s gyms traditionally use the Japanese style of routesetting where holds go up first, and routes are made later and marked with tape or metal plates. While minor adjustments do happen, for the most part this limits routesetters to what’s on the wall. At Red Rock, each route uses its own set of holds, resulting in problems that feel more specific, more “tailor-fit”. Compared to other gyms in Taiwan, you’ll find more forced moves, technical footwork and body-position dependent problems.

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Besides solid setting, Red Rock brings superb training facilities. With steep walls up to 60 degrees, multiple campus boards, a Rock Prodigy Training Center fingerboard, Olympic Rings, and even a Moonboard, this place is undoubtedly now the number one place in the the country for getting strong.

Quality comes at a cost — Red Rock’s pricing is $250, the highest in Taiwan, up there with STONE’s weekend pricing. During the opening weekend from 6/19 to 6/21 Red Rock is offering a 2 for one deal on day passes. These don’t expire, so you can hoard them for later use if so inclined.

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Red Rock is located 11 min walking distance from Jiantan station at No.261 B1 Chengde Rd section 4, and there are youbike stations at Jiantan station and Shilin sports center to cut that trip in half. This makes it one of the most convenient gyms in Taipei.

Red Rocks’ professional staff, 3 meter high walls and sweet location are all reminiscent of the legendary LZS bouldering gym that gathered Taipei climbers of all walks of life together into one convenient urban climbing gym. Will it live up to the hype?  Time will only tell.

 Pictures courtesy Red Rock Climbing Gym