Endurance Training – Long Endurance and Power Endurance

Following their crack school and beginner series, Wild Country has recently created two new videos with James Pearson which we like for their holistic approach to fighting the pump.

James Pearson – Stamina Training – Part 1 – Endurance training for routes of more than 30 moves… from Wild Country on Vimeo.

The first video focuses on long routes of 30+ moves. Taiwan actually rarely has routes that are quite this long, but this type of training is still quite effective for beginning route climbers for the following reasons:

  • Climbing long, easy routes increases aerobic endurance, improving the circulation in the forearm muscles(often with visibly increased vascularity). This increase in circulatory ability improves recovery on good holds, as well as the ability to recover  between climbs.
  • Even easy routes get pumpy if they are long. Climbing these long routes highlights the importance of efficient movement.

Walls in the Taipei area which would suit doubles training would be moderate routes on Neihu’s vertical wall, Y17, or iClimb’s lead wall.

James Pearson – Stamina Training – Part 2 – Power endurance training for routes of between 15 and 30 moves… from Wild Country on Vimeo.

The second video focuses on “power endurance” on routes of 15-30 moves. This kind of training fosters anaerobic endurance and will most directly translate into better endurance on the routes in Taiwan – whether plastic or real rock.

The bouldering bit in the 2nd video is a variation of the ever popular, extremely intense 4×4 endurance training which can be done in any bouldering gym.

For more information about training endurance we suggest reading  Performance Rock Climbing and/or Self-Coached Climber

Sean McColl’s Training Video

Who is Sean McColl? One of the strongest all-around climbers around, yet you may have never heard of him.

That’s because while most famous  climbers climb outdoors, working super hard projects captured in glitzy climbing videos, Sean’s focus is on the IFSC World Cup which, although extremely competitive, gets much less coverage in English-language climbing media.

That doesn’t mean he’s not strong on real rock- Sean repeated Chris Sharma’s 9a project Dreamcatcher last year, and has sent V15.

All that training pays off, though . Besides his 2011 ABS Nationals win, this year Sean has been racking up medals in both Bouldering and Lead rounds on the World Cup circuit – unprecedented for a North American climber.