XiaoWulai Bouldering

Author and Developer: Roger Wu

Translated by: TaiwanRocks.net

Area: XiaoWulai Scenic Area

Description: Clean rock, relatively flat landings, fairly good density of problems. A good bouldering crag not far from Taipei.  2-3 Pads is enough.

Directions

First get to the XiaoWulai Scenic Area Gmaps Icon (marked by star on the Map)

Xiaowulai Checkpoints

XiaoWulai Area Map with Checkpoints numbered(see below)

#1 

1. Follow the road downhill

1. Follow the road downhill

#2

2. Follow the switchback

2. Follow the switchback

#3

cp3

3. Cross this bridge

#4

cp4

4a. Birthday bouldering area is under the bridge to the left. Find parking along the road

This is the Birthday Bouldering Area

Continue on for Unbreakable Egg and Friends

4b. Right after the bridge, turn onto the small road on your left

4b. Immediately after the bridge, turn onto the small road on your left

simple road

Continue on this road, past a small bridge, and keep going straight until you see checkpoint 5

 

#5

5. This is the parking spot for the two other bouldering areas

5.  Right before you hit the riverbed again, there is this parking spot for the two other bouldering areas

Facing the river, Unbreakable Egg is downriver to your right and Friends is upriver to your left.

Topography

xiaowulaimap labeled temp

 

Notes:
There is no real parking area for Birthday, so the P there just indicates street parking.

The road to Unbreakable Egg/Friends is not mapped fully by Google Maps. The unmapped portion is indicated by dotted line.

Birthday Area

The Birthday Area is the first area you will pass. Parking is just by the road – there is no real parking lot.

Entrance to the Birthday bouldering area

Entrance to the Birthday bouldering area

Go down the side of the bridge to enter the area. The first boulder(Boulder 1) will be on your left.

Looking into the Birthday area

Looking into the Birthday area – Boulder 1(Problems 1-5)

Continue down and find Boulder 2

Boulder 2 (problems 6-8)

 

Boulder 3 (Problems 9-14)

Birthday Area Problems
# Name Grade FA
1 DWS PROJECT DWS PROJECT NONE
2 Ha- V0 Roger Wu
3 Py V0 Roger Wu
4 Birth- V0 Roger Wu
5 Day V0 Roger Wu
6 PROJECT V5+ NONE
7 PROJECT V10+ NONE
8 Sweet Potato Cake V6 Deng-Jung Chang
9 Sorry V1 Chang Yeu-Shiang
10 Purple Rice Ball V4 Deng-Jung Chang
11 Seasoned Purple Rice Ball V5 Jiun-Jie Tzeng
12 Foul Purple Rice Ball V5 Deng-Jung Chang
13 Stays Dry V2 Deng-Jung Chang
14 So what if it’s Wet V3 Chang Yeu-Shiang

Route Pictures @ DropBox

Unbreakable Egg

This area is well down from the Birthday area and is downriver of the parking area P marked on the Topo map.

Past the first dam, Boulder 1 will be on your right.

Unbreakable Egg boulder 1

Boulder 1(Problems #1-3)

Downstream of Boulder 1, follow the path by the trees to find the other boulders

Unbreakable Egg path

follow the path by the trees to find the other boulders

Panorama picture of boulders 2,3,5,6,8 - click for full size

Panorama picture of boulders 2,3,5,6,8 – click for full size

Unbreakable Egg part 2

Boulders 2(#4),3(#5-7),4(#8),5(#9-12), 6(#13,14,30,31)

Alternate view of Boulder 2 and 4

Alternate view of Boulder 2 and 4

Continue downstream to find even more boulders

Panaroma of Boulders 4,7,8,9,10,11 - Click for Full Size

Panaroma of Boulders 4(#8),7(#15-17,32),8(#18-20,29),9(#21),10(#22-24),11(#25) – Click for Full Size

Unbreakable Egg part 3

Boulders 6,7,8, and 10

 

 

 

Unbreakable egg part 4

Boulder 12(#26-28)

Unbreakable Egg Area Problems
# Name Grade FA
1 Firecracker V3 Dean
2 C4 V5 Alvin Hsu
3 PROJECT V7+ NONE
4 Broke V2 Dean
5 Over Easy V3 Roger Wu
6 Left Hand Flower V2 Roger Wu
7 PROJECT V2+ NONE
8 Fuck Until it Explode V5 Han-Jie Liu
9 Fear Bomb V6 Han-Jie Liu
10 PROJECT V6+ NONE
11 PROJECT V6+ NONE
12 PROJECT V7+ NONE
13 Kiss Fify V2 Wang Yun Chun
14 Soaring Eagle V2 Vira Liu
15 Spot Me! V2+ Wang Yun Chun
16 PROJECT V10+ NONE
17 Dream Catch V6 Deng-Jung Chang
18 Big J V1+ Wang Yun Chun
19 Dube, Fify, Snow V1+ Roger Wu
20 Wet Dog V1+ Wang Yun Chun
21 PROJECT V1+ NONE
22 Over Hard V6 Dean
23 OVER THE OVER V4 Roger Wu
24 OK Mart V7 Chang Yeu-Shiang
25 PROJECT V2+ NONE
26 PROJECT V2+ NONE
27 PROJECT V7+ NONE
28 Height Disadvantage V7 Deng-Jung Chang
29 Gangnam Style V3 Roger Wu
30 One Step V1 Wang Yun Chun
31 PROJECT ? NONE
32 Libra Perfection V4 Roger Wu
33 Deja Vu V5 Roger Wu

Route pictures @ DropBox

Friends

Friends is upstream of the parking lot.

Friends Path 1

Follow the path up

Up the side of the dam

Up the side of the dam

Follow it through

Follow it through

Friends 1

Boulder 1 – Problems #1-4

 

 

Friends 2

Boulders 1 and 2

 

Friends 3

Boulder 2 (Problems #5-9)

Continue upstream past some driftwood

Friends Path 4

continue past the driftwood

Friends 4

Boulder 3(#10-15),4(#16-18),5(#19-21) and 6(22)

 

Friends 5

Close up of Boulder 5 and 6

Boulder 7(#23) and 8(#24)

Boulder 7(#23) and 8(#24)

 

Friends Area  Problems
# Name Grade FA
1 S&M (Squeeze & Mental) V2 Roger Wu
2 Straight to the Point V6 Han-Jie Liu
3 Thanks Roger V8 Jeremy
4 Naming Rights V4 Han-Jie Liu
5 Red Sorghum V3 Roger Wu
6 Alvin’s Chicken Burger V5 Alvin Hsu
7 My Name is Han-Jie V7 Han-Jie Liu
8 Can’t be Too Hard V9 Deng-Jung Chang
9 Covert V0 Roger Wu
10 Tall Start V6 Han-Jie Liu
11 LOL V6 Alvin Hsu
12 Height Fearless V8 Roger Wu
13 PROJECT V10+ NONE
14 PROJECT V10+ NONE
15 PROJECT V10+ NONE
16 Beerholic V2 Roger Wu
17 I feel good V4 Han-Jie Liu
18 Gravity 45degrees V2 Roger Wu
19 Side Foot V6 Deng-Jung Chang
20 PROJECT V5+ NONE
21 Half Life Jr V6 Deng-Jung Chang
22 Single Solo V2 Roger Wu
23 Mini Bouldering #1 V1 Roger Wu
24 Mini Bouldering #1 V1 Roger Wu
25 Gino’s Got my Back V4 Chris Walters

Route pictures @ DropBox

This guide has been translated and edited by Danger Zhang for TaiwanRocks.net

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