Posted by Danger on
January 11, 2012
Disclaimer: These terms are used in Taiwan. Different ones will be used in Mainland China/HK/Singapore.
Feel free to contribute your own terms in the comments below and we will update our list and credit you.
For safety reasons, make sure your belayer and you agree before using any set of climbing commands
Contributors: Tung-Wei Yang, Jeff Lin, Danger Zhang
On belay? – ”Am I on belay？“ – 準備攀登 [Zhǔnbèi pāndēng]
Belay on - “I’ve checked everything and it’s good. I’ve put you on belay” – 確保完成 [Quèbǎo wánchéng]
Climbing “I’m going to climb now. You better have me on belay” – 開始攀登 [Kāishǐ pāndēng]
Climb on “Go ahead and climb. All systems checked” – 請攀登 [Qǐng pāndēng]
Take rope. – “Take in rope so I can hang right here” – Take or 收[Shōu] or 收繩[Shōu shéng]
Falling - ”I’m gonna fall soon if not immediately. Be ready for it.” – “Fall!” or 墜落 [Zhuìluò]
Lower - ”Lower me” – 下降[Xiàjiàng]
Rock/Rope! - “watch out, there is something falling down” – 落石 [Luòshí]/落繩[Luò shéng]
Slack - “Give me some slack(e.g. to clip in)” – 給繩[Gěi shéng]/ 鬆[Sōng] / 鬆繩[Sōng shéng]
Off-belay – “I’m in a safe position where I can’t fall. Take me off belay” – 解除確保[Jiěchú Quèbǎo ]
Belay off - “I’ve taken you off belay. If you fall you’re screwed” – 確保解除[Quèbǎo Jiěchú]
Watch me! - “I’m about to do the crux. Watch me and be ready to catch my fall!” – 注意！ [Zhùyì】
Commonly used English terms
English level varies with Taiwanese climbers, but a few English terms are commonly used and universally known.
Over - short for overhang
This list is far from comprehensive so we recommend you learn at least a few of the following terms if you plan to climb with Taiwanese climbers.
Key Chinese Terms
Climbing is a relatively new and nascent sport in Taiwan. The terms below are the standard ones, but regional usage differs even in the same city.
攀岩 - Rock climbing
先鋒攀登 - Lead（Sport) Climbing
傳統攀登 - Trad Climbing
抱石 - Bouldering （lit. "hug rock")
登山，爬山 - Mountaineering or Hiking. (lit. "ascend mountain")
（雙）八字結 - Figure 8 knot
完攀 - "Send"(ascend) a route
吊帶 - Harness
扁帶 - Sling
快扣 - Quickdraw
鉤環/大D - Carabiner
耳片 - Bolt, especially hanger type bolt, but the english "Bolt" is also used often in Taiwan.
化學管 - Glue-in bolt. but the engilsh "Bolt" is more commonly used.
粉 - Chalk
粉袋 - Chalkbag
確保器 - Belay Device You will also often hear "豬鼻子" which means "pigs nose" and is what Taiwanese climbers call an ATC
Sticker - Taiwanese English for Stick clip
倒拉， 到抓 - undercling
側拉 - Sidepull
摩擦點，Open點 - Sloper
捏 - Pinch. Some taiwanese will just say “Pinch"
摳點 - Crimper. Some taiwanese will say "crimp" or "close”點. "Close" referring to a closed crimp.
指洞 - Pocket
上方確保 - Toproping
路線 - Route or [bouldering] Problem
上攀 – route climbing(as opposed to bouldering). Means “Climbing up”
確保 – Belaying
先鋒 攀登- Lead climbing
岩鞋 – Rock shoes
岩點 – climbing hold
手點 – Handhold
豬鼻子 – Tube style belay device, such as an ATC
動態 – Dynamic ， used for movement（動作） or belay（確保）
靜態 – Static， used for movement（動作） or belay（確保）
完攀 – Send/complete a route
交叉手 – cross-over move
換手 – Match/switch hands
換腳 – Match/switch feet
掛腳 – Heel hook move
勾腳- Toe hook move. Can be 勾腳尖 to be more clear.
象鼻子 – Mammut Smart belay Device, because it looks like an elephants trunk
裂隙 – Crack
天花板 – Roof
墜落係數- Fall Factor
垂降 – Rappel/Abseil
Key English Terms (these terms don’t have direct chinese equivalents)
Beta - the sequence of moves used to solve a route or a problem. 解路線的方法
Send (‘scend) – ascend or climb up the whole route – 完攀. Contributed by wdwbock
Match (hands or feet) - to put more than one body part on a single hold. 雙腳或者雙手在一個點上。中文平常會說”換腳” 或 “換手”
Problem – Bouldering routes are very short and difficult, so they’re called problems instead of routes. 抱石路線
Spray – to talk excessively. Boasting and giving unwanted beta are the most common forms of spray. 打嘴炮
Flash – To send something on the first try, without hanging on the rope. 第一次嘗試，不用take，完攀
On-sight [flash]- To send something on the first try without receiving beta or touching the holds. 第一次看到一個路線，不用take一次完攀它。
[climbing] Rack – Your climbing gear. Called a rack because traditionally, climbing involved a ton of gear that you carefully racked on a sling.
Redpoint – To send a route on lead, without hanging on the rope or any kind of ”cheating”. 紅點完攀
Deck – from “hit the deck”. to hit the ground. Not fun and to be avoided at all costs if you’re not bouldering. 地面。意思平常是墜落到地面。
Slab – a climb where the route is less than vertical. 90度以上的牆，比如熱海。
Second – The person leading a climb is the Lead climber. the person who follows is the “second” .在Multipitch攀岩方式，Second 是第二個攀岩者（用上方確保時的）
Sloper – a round hold without any good positive edge or other kind of solid hold . to use this type of hold you have to get a lot of skin on it and get your center of gravity below it. 摩擦點，Open點
Topo[graphy] -Guidebook or a map or photo showing a crag, where the climbs are, and/or the lines of the routes on the rock. 路線圖，路線書
4 Responses to “Glossary”
“Take” (in the US) means to provide enough tension to allow the toprope climber to let go and hang on the rope in about the same place as they were when they were climbing…
To take in excess slack in the rope, we (again, in the US) will say “tension” or, the more commonly used, “up rope”…And finally,
beta - information about the climb
send (‘scend) – ascend or climb up the whole route
“shit” (I am going to fall)
“fuck” (I fell)
“damnit” (I wasn’t close to sending the problem, but I want you to think I was…)
By wdwbock on Feb 28, 2012
the formatting got all changed…
By wdwbock on Feb 28, 2012
I tried to fix it for you.
I did some testing and fixed the commenting system so formatting should be perfect now.
By Danger on Feb 28, 2012
Great post! I knew most of these, but good to see the characters for them too.
By Jeff Lau on Jan 22, 2015