Long Dong 2012-2013 Rebolt Effort
Posted by Danger on
August 22, 2012
Update: Please note this page was last updated in 2012 and is kept for historical purposes. For the latest status on rebolting and route safety, please visit our new route tracker: Guidebook+
Long Dong is Taiwan’s premier climbing area, with excellent sandstone rock in a beautiful seaside location. However, the very factors that make it a great climbing area, the sandstone and sea, also mean that bolts in some areas become unreliable over time, as the salty sea air accelerates corrosion.
With funds secured Spring 2012, Deacon You of iClimb Gym, and “Doc” (章芳源) have led a serious rebolting effort this summer, with major contributions at the cliffs by Yushang Chang(張宇翔), Two-Teeth(二齒）, Wojtek Gierlotka as well as help from numerous other climbers. Significant progress has been made and is being documented on this page.
Rebolted Routes
These routes have been rebolted with new glue-in bolts recently and should be safe to climb
Golden Valley
| Route # | Route Name | Rebolter |
|---|---|---|
| 154 | Inconvenient | Doc |
| 155 | Very Inconvenient | Doc |
| 156 | Convenient | Doc |
| 169 | Around the Corner | Wojtek |
| 170 | Teamwork | Wojtek |
| 172 | Aus der Traum variation | Wojtek |
| 174 | Never | Wojtek, Deacon |
| 175 | Dragon’s Back | Wojtek |
| 177 | Dripping Dragon | Wojtek |
| 179 | Dragon’s Nose | Wojtek, Deacon |
| 183 | Stephan’s Size | Wojtek, Deacon |
Second Cave
| Route # | Route Name | Rebolter |
|---|---|---|
| 237 | The Desert | Doc, Yo-Chang, Two Teeth |
FirstCave
| Route # | Route Name | Rebolter |
|---|---|---|
| 251 | Wonderland Fairy | Group Effort |
| 253 | Twilight Crack | Group Effort |
| 254 | New World | Group Effort |
| 262 | Three Days, Thirty Meters | Doc, Jeremy |
| 263 | Pigeon | Doc, Alvin |
| 264 | Endless | Doc, Tiger |
| 267 | Skipping Work | Group Effort |
| 268 | National Day | Group Effort |
| 269 | October 10 | Group Effort |
| 272 | Valentine’s Gift | Doc |
| 277 | Sorry Erica | Doc |
Music Hall
| Route # | Route Name | Rebolter |
|---|---|---|
| 338 | Direct Attempt | Doc |
| 339 | Nancy’s Attempt | Doc |
| 346 | Comeback Arête | Doc |
| 348 | Henchman | Doc |
| 350 | Reluctant | Doc |
| 397 | Devil’s Challenge | Doc |
| 405 | Yum Yum Sky Wall 4 | Doc |
| 407 | Yum Yum Sky Wall 2 | Doc |
| 408 | Yum Yum Sky Wall 1 | Doc |
Unsafe Routes
These routes have been inspected recently and because of either bolt or rock conditions, considered not safe for climbing.
Please note that this list is only the known unsafe routes– please check the guidebook, and do a visual inspection of the bolts and rock, especially in less-frequented areas.
- Back Door #16
- Back Door #50
- Back Door #51 Xiao Ao Jiang Hu
- Golden Valley #123 Snake Alley
- Golden Valley #147 Just Dyno
- Golden Valley #148 Conditional Reality
- Golden Valley #151 Golden Legend
- Golden Valley #152 Real Legend
- First Cave #259 Long March
- First Cave #260 Solo
- First Cave #261 Duet
- First Cave #266 Overhang Arête
- Grand Auditorium #326 Verdon du Taiwan
- Grand Auditorium #328 Via del Drago
- Music Hall #349 Hubble
- Clock Tower #493 Scarface
Because of possible typos and human error, please do a visual inspection of “fixed” routes before climbing them, and check with local climbers if possible.
TaiwanRocks.net posts this information for informative purposes info and makes no guarantee of accuracy. Climbing is dangerous and you are reponsible for your own safety.
Last updated: 11/09/2012
Source: Long Dong Rebolt Effort(FB:龍洞 re-bolt 計劃)
2 Responses to “Long Dong 2012-2013 Rebolt Effort”
You might consider to actually link the list on facebook…
By Juppy on Aug 22, 2012
Hi Juppy,
That’s a good question. I’ve updated my page to list my source more clearly.
There is no simple “List” to link to. The information on this page is translated and parsed from a confusing, multipage excel file written in Chinese. The FB page it is on is also in Chinese and mostly for people who are directly involved with the effort.
For these reasons I haven’t linked it directly, but if you’re confident that your Chinese is near-native, search “龍洞 re-bolt 計劃“ and you can find the rebolt effort FB group.
By Danger on Aug 23, 2012