Long Dong Rebolting Plan Progress Report

Translated by Jeff Lin                     Proofread by Danger Zhang

Original Source(Chinese): 龍洞Re-bolt計劃進度說明_20160505.pdf

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Those who care about and visit Longdong often, all know that many bolts need to be replaced soon.

With the support of many climbers, we started the “Longdong Re-Bolt Project” in 2012. We will replace 2000 stainless steel bolt based on its material, year, and location, with titanium bolts which are much more suitable for a seaside crag.

Due to the massive scale of the task and the fact that everyone involved has a full time job, the progress has been slow and delayed. Also, to reduce the need for future generations to re-rebolt, damaging the rock further, besides  purchasing P-Type and U-Type titanium bolt, we’re also trying to produce our own custom-made titanium bolts in partnership with top tier manufacturer Fusheng Precision Co. Ltd.. We  hope our bolts can be even higher quality and better suited for our seaside crag than those on the market, thus allowing the next generation of climbers to appreciate our beloved Long Dong.

Over the years we have used many stainless steel bolts from different major brands. Although the international certification provided a guarantee of strength, it did not guarantee service life – which is the main issue we are facing. Therefore we tried to look for bolts made of materials that are more resistant to seaside corrosion. However we could not find any with actual simulated service life tests. Hence, we started to develop our own titanium bolt.

We have decided that besides than the standard EN959 strength test, we will also perform the ASTM-B368 (CASS) copper-accelerated acetic acid salt spray test to simulate 50 years of seaside corrosion, then perform further pull test to ensure a long service life (We’re still working on adding another corrosion resistant test “ASTM-G36 Boiling Magnesium Chloride Test”). Also, for quality control, once mass produced, every bolt will go through x-ray examination and sampled pull tests.

If the project fails, Doc intends to pay for the process without using the Rebolt Project funds. If it succeeds, because we do not seek commercial benefit and have limited manpower, time and resources, hence we will carry out the CE/UIAA equivalent testing internally for quality confirmation purposes, but do not plan to send the bolts to be CE/UIAA certified. We will publish the testing data, video, and pictures for everyone to see soon.

Longdong is Taiwan’s climbing mecca; the coastal crags does not only reminds us the great memories from the past but also ignites our passion. It will be there for the next generation. Bolt is still an essential part of the climbing and technology has not solved the issues of bolt. The stones of Long Dong  can only bear through the process of bolting, de-bolting, and rebolting that many times. Hence we are taking a more cautious approach, not only to reduce the risk of accidents but also for the sake of the long term development of Long Dong climbing. This is why we have purchased a pull tester to find out which bolts need to be replaced first as well as to better understand the localized effects that the rock and environment have on the bolts at Long Dong. The replacement schedule for the bolts and the details of the rebolt plan’s execution have been discussed at length within the group.

We will soon create a “Longdong Rebolt Project” official website which will be online soon as well as a FAQ page, to allow climbers to gain better insight into the project.

Re-Bolting Team


Meeting Minutes

Meeting Time: 2016/05/01 7pm~12pm

Meeting Location: XXXX Hall

Attendees: Mr. Wang, Doc, Kang Ming-Che, Xiao Xiang, A-Lang, I-Chiau, Ofelia, Maurice, Powen, Joshi, Xiao Zhao, Digua, Jeremy, Xiao Ying, Jinlung, Yan Zhen, Xiao Man, Jun-Ming (19 members total)


Meeting Outline:

  1. Self-Produced Ti-Bolt Progress Report

  2. Old 304 Bolt Rebolt Areas Update

  3. Old 304 Bolt Pulling Test

  4. Future Outlook


Project Progress Report:

  1. Custom Ti-Bolt Progress Report

    1. The custom Ti-Bolt is now undergoing testing, primary results should be out by mid May. If the result is positive and pass EN959 standard, then it will enter the mass production stage. Every mass produced bolt will be examined by x-ray and sample tested by pull test. The first production run will be 1000 bolts and there may be a possible second batch produced if needed.

    2. The pull test will be carried out to the EN959 standard. In addition, ASTM-B368 (CASS) Copper-accelerated acetic acid salt spray test will be be performed to simulate 50 years in a sea salt environment. After the CASS test, another pull test and cut examination will be performed. (Currently still working to add another corrosion resistant test “ASTM-G36 Boiling Magnesium Chloride Test)

    3. Whether to do more quality testing of the final production bolts, will be determined in a future meeting when mass production is certain.

    4. We have not ruled out the possibility to be sent for international certification but it s not being considered at this moment, however we are inquiring the certification cost for future reference.

    5. The custom Ti bolt will not be sold for commercial use.

  2. Old 304 bolt Rebolting

    1. After discussion of the 304 bolt rebolting plan, the decision is to prioritize the popular/dangerous routes first through testing then decide whether or not to rebolt. If the execution of this plan runs into difficulty and can not be carried out, alternative methods will be discussed in another meeting

    2. We will look for volunteers to help with the project in order to speed up the testing process

    3. Actual testing will follow the testing procedure and record with pictures/videos/text for future reference and data gathering

  3. 304 Bolt Pull Test

    1. Pull test will be conducted

    2. Testing consists 8kN pulling strength for 1 minute and repeat the process 5 times under 10 minutes

    3. Bolts must meet tensile and elastic strength performance requirements.

  4. Website

    1. Construct and publish a basic website for external communications and improve and complete the website gradually

  5. Volunteer Recruiting Plan

    1. Recruit volunteers to help in order to ensure having enough man-power during rebolt process in the future

  6. Fundraising Plan

    1. If we enter the mass production phase, we will start another round of fundraising.

  7. TBD/Under Discussion

    1. Which routes will be tested first

    2. Implementation plan and schedule

Please note that this is an unofficial translation of an official announcement made by the rebolt team and we make no guarantee of accuracy.

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