Onsight Tips from 2 Masters

With STONE’s Birds Egg Competition right around the corner, NTUT’s Shanzai Cup on May 11th, and the National Championships on May 18th-19th, there are plenty of reasons to want to improve your onsight climbing level.

Although generally thought of as a route-climbing skill, onsighting or flashing routes is the ideal strategy in bouldering competitions as well. Not only do you have the most strength, and the greatest chance to send on the first try of a boulder, but attempting a problem more than once will tire you out quickly, reducing your chances of finishing subsequent problems.

Without further ado we present Onsight Tips from 2 Masters:

Alex Megos

photo – Megos

Alex has blown the climbing world away by onsighting 9a. To put this into perspective, the current hardest route in the world is graded 9b+.

How does he do it? Alex Megos talks about specific skills needed to onsight and how to build them in this interview to RCUK last year. Although at that time he had “only” onsighted 8b+, the same tips are relevant today.

Jerry Moffat

Jerry Moffat is one of the legendary British climbers from the 80′s who pushed the envelope of what is possible. Known for both his onsight and redpoint achievements, in this video he gives very practical strategies for dealing with nerves,  and getting the right frame of mind for onsight  climbing.



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